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Well I had a chassis in great shape and lots of pieces so I threw this together. Luckily I had a jammin rear tower cause the stock one causes the shocks to rub the stock rims. Even with the shocks leaned in its still very very close. I am using the new style shock balls on the bottom to pull the shock closer to the arm cause the button head bolt was hitting the wheel. So here's my Houge questions. Did it come with a special tower and/or lower shock mounts? If they have you modify them, does anyone have the instructions? I can live with it but it doesn't seem right.

Moving on to the front. Rpm arms should be era correct i would think, and I would like to find a tall front tower to match the jammin rear. Problem is they say the jammin tower will take a .71 or 1.02. Neither of those came as a bottom load did they? Then my other issue is the ball joints. I was aiming for the old DuBro look but these newer ones have NO movement. Are there any acceptable and still readily available ones? I may consider the DuBro adjustable ones as I think there is room if I'm careful but I'd like to keep that as a last resort.

Ps....I know the steering bellcranks are incorrect, but the previous owner discarded the idler. doh!

shocks mount to the backside of the tower with the houge trailing arms.

Love that rear tower! I'm pretty sure that the 1.02 shock was made bottom loading, and was thinking the .71 was also. Pretty sure I remember seeing a NIP bottom load 1.02. If so, I'll send it to you.

all of associated shocks up to the b4 were made in top and bottom load style.

personally, i think andy's arms would look better on it. the rpm arms are too new.

I am still looking for a reasonable prices set of andys arms. I prefer them too

The back side of the tower makes WAY more sense. I took a quick peek online and the one I saw had it up front so that's where I went.

Thanks guys! If i can find a matching front tower now I will be happy! I may copy a few of the rears off when the weather is better

The houge instructions tell you to drill another hole inboard on the shock tower, something like 3/8" in or so.

Got the rear sorted now, back to the steel shock balls and moved the mounts to the rear. The jammin tower has the extra inner holes and they seem about perfect

The Houge trailing arm kit came with it's own shock cups that I believe sat on top of the rod end.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-Houge-155-RC10-Trailing-Arm-conversion-NEW-/271073984659?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1d44c093&nma=true&si=F765mbQyS%2FRgGiLRHe1ZnFcF3eU%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


I just listed some used Andy's arms on eBay. They're not top shelf but they're not bad if you don't look too hard at them. If you want the fronts let me know and I'll pull the auction and send them to you.

Ahh I see! Those will be hard to source....but I bet there are other era correct ones I can find. Hmmm.....

oh yeah, a 2.0" wheel will also give more shock/wheel clearance as well. Lemme check I might have a set of shock lower cups. If you wanted to keep them lower cups white, you could use shock spacers to 'fill' in the cup so it sits higher.

The wheel clearance got better just the cup and arm interference now but it's very minor and a single down stop spacer should lift it up plenty

I'm not sure what year the houge set up was released
But when I bought mine we were on 2.0's.
I never had rubbing issues. Your car is really nice, brings back good memories.
My houge was one of my favorite cars, I did quite well with it.

Those are bolink rears lol! Have a couple sets like those so I figured I'd use em. Unfortunately there were not really a matching front so they look a little out of place. I may have to come up with some proline fronts and rears for her one day

Another question, I have quite a few bodies laying around and have yet to find one that fits the shape of the front chassis. Almost seems like I'd need a Losi body. Anyone know of a recommended body? I currently have a Mears body on it and I really like it, but you can see chassis poking out.

I think Andy's were the only buggy bodies that really covered all of the chassis. The Viper and Protech II come close but still leave some chassis sticking out.