RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Well, I'm not trying to sell anything at this point so I hope the moderators understand and don't delete this post. I'm just curious as to what thoughts on the matter some people may have because I have access to the required software and equipment to make reproduction 3D printed parts.

I'm not even sure it is necessary at this point, but original parts may not be around forever, and with a few simple dimensions and/or pictures, I can have a computer model made in a matter of minutes. Any production run size can be made right when it is needed without molds for casting. Modern technology is amazing.

My main concern is the type of plastic used. It is a nice sturdy material, however with 3D printing, the plastic is sintered layer by layer so I believe it is a bit weaker than original injection molded pieces, but that can be made up for by making revisions to the design.
Tolerances are pretty good, probably about the same as the originals, and the parts can even be made in different colors.

So my question is, is this something that would be desirable in this community? Is it something that is already available to this community? Or is this simply not necessary at all?
There are online 3d printing services so anyone could make their own parts, I just wasn't sure how many people have the necessary software available to do that.

I have begun to model plastic parts for the RC10LSS and L4, and in the future (probably distant, admittedly) I plan on looking into having chassis plates, nerf bars and other pieces cnc machined from carbon fiber.

Just food for thought. Let me know your thoughts and concerns.

Personally, as technology stands at the moment I'd only consider it for shelf-queens or prototype 'checking for fit' parts. I wouldn't consider them suitable for running - certainly not for racing.

However, there's no reason why it couldn't be used to make moulds for DIY production of parts. There are various kits on market for casting your own resin parts, but it's the moulds that are the problem part. Using 3D printing for this purpose could make a lot of sense.

Thats a good idea. Why didn't I think of that... Well then, I will have to look into that. Anybody know where I can get some blueprints to go off of, or will I just have to get my hands on old parts?

As a former Industrial Designer, and professional model maker I can assure you that there are are no resins available (for casting that is)that would make suitable parts for actual running or racing. The printed parts however can be made with many of the same materials that are available in injection molded versions. They typically will have about 80* percent of the strength of their injection molded counterparts however. -Jeff

What are radio control chassis parts typically made of, ABS? I wonder if there is some way that I can modify an old press as a makeshift injection molding setup for small parts such as this.

nicholasdivitto wrote:What are radio control chassis parts typically made of, ABS? I wonder if there is some way that I can modify an old press as a makeshift injection molding setup for small parts such as this.

Hi all, new here.

The parts, I think were "delrin". That's what this thread here says:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21295&start=60

^^^^^ They were machining aluminum and delrin trans in that thread!
Not sure from that thread if the original parts were delrin.
Wish they were still selling those. There's all sorts of fascinating stuff here at rc10talk.

RC car parts are made of all kinds of plastics.

Here's a thread I started about them: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=24380

ROH73 wrote:RC car parts are made of all kinds of plastics.

Here's a thread I started about them: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=24380

Great info, thanks.

So on the RC10, the "white chassis" blocks were just Nylon, and the white gears and such were the only parts that were delrin.

I don't believe that any of the original white rc10 parts were delrin (acetal). I believe they were all nylon to begin with. Later there were delrin parts worked into the mix (shock mount balls, shock pistons, etc). -Jeff

Jay Dub is correct. ALL of the original RC10 white parts were nylon. The servo saver, white ball ends and possibly the shock pistons were some sort of blend and everything else was natural color nylon 6/6. Later on, black Delrin idler gears were added, along with with white delrin shock pistons, etc. Later still, some black glass filled nylon parts showed up (e.g. rear World's A-arms).

I'm a firm believer in 3D printing, I tried to convince others (along with Emerson) it is the only cost-effective way of reproducing a small run of MIP RC10 4WD kits. I don't why others think the parts would not be strong when they have had no contact with the technology.

Properly designed, the printed parts would be fine. -Jeff

As someone who has current experience with 3D printing, I agree with Jeff. In general, one can't just take a traditional molded part, reverse engineer it, print it and expect it to perform the same. Lots of factors come in to play: resin, print method, part design, acceptable tolerances, etc. For example, current printable resins are good, but can't compare to things like carbon reinforced or glass filled nylon blends. In part design, molded parts are designed with drafts and features that help to make the part easier to mold. These features are often unnecessary in printed parts and can actually be a hindrance in making a good part.

All that said, most of the MIP 4WD would be perfect for 3D printing, especially the (relatively) non-load bearing parts like the front gearbox.

This is a 3D printed radio box for Scorpion and I would say it’s good as the original one.

I would love to see this happen myself the only thing i worry about is if you were to sell the parts legal issues with copyrights and what not but i think if u made the parts in different colors and without original manufacturers name you might be ok but i would only build parts for people "in the hobby" , a select collector group say this forum or t.c. or clodtalk etc... to keep the ebay sharks at bay