RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Finally getting around to putting together the CE runner I've been hoarding parts for. Gonna stick with the original suspension setup and use B3 wheels. A lot of new parts, and nice used parts mix. Found some period correct Ti turnbuckles, Lunsford Ti shock mounts, and a few other odds and ends. Put together what I could so far while waiting on chassis to arrive. Somehow these never get boring to assemble.

pretty parts, and you take really nice photos.

Bob, you still need a baseline setup? I completely forgot to respond to your PM

iphone does have a pretty good camera!

Reg, yes a starting point would be good. I went ahead and built the shocks with #2 pistons all around, 30 front/25 rear, and the springs you see. 1.32 new rear shafts with 3 spacers each(thanks JK). Hopefully that'll get it close. Will be running a 10.5 BL with the stocker 81 tooth spur on a smallish track.

Do you use the B4 crush tubes when using the 3/16" rear axles? I tried, and they fit in there quite nice.

I use crush tubes and B4 CVD axle (not the bone) and the B4 flat spacer after the pin (nice flat surface for the wheel to sit against). But, I'm not using those hubs...you have to use a 1/2 X 3/16 flanged bearing or the whole assembly just falls out so I use 10T 0 deg rear hubs (with the T2/team truck 3* arm mounts).

I think that you might be a little light in the oil for the buggy overall as the short arms (compared to modern buggies) really react quickly, so I'd go up by 2.5 in the front oil and the rear (32.5/27.5) and go with a (3/2) piston front and rear. If the track is really tight with super nuts traction then you may want to lighten up a bit.

I'll PM you the rest-

Cool. Yes traction is plenty from the start as most are using slicks in the first heats. I used the B4 crush tubes with the original hubs and a few shims to come out to this:

I have some slicks to send you that are already mounted. Borrow them and try out a few compounds and insert types

would a b4 cone washer fit behind the pin?

btw, my iphone doesn't take pics like that.

FRONT
25deg caster (way better turn in than the 30 on high bite)
32.5# front, 2 limiters
.71 shocks and stock CE tower upper and inside, outside lower
#2 pistons, Brown springs
2 deg toe in (for stability), -1/2 camber
2 washers under ballstud on steering arms (stock inline)
front ride height @ 23mm
1oz nose weight over front body mount hole
standard front wheelbase

MIDDLE
Chassis trimmed to 21mm
battery as far forward as allowed (right against servo) (Turnigy 5300/ large)
1/2 oz behind ESC on left side, 1/2 oz behind and 1/4 oz ahead of rec on right

REAR

3deg toe per side (T2) with stock antisquat
0deg 10t rear hubs
longest camberlink option
-1 camber
1.32 shocks/ 1.02 shaft, #1 piston (drilled out to .54), 30w oil, 3 standard (thin) limiters
Top inner (2nd from outside on worlds tower) mount, lower outside
Green rear springs 21mm ride height
Long wheelbase setting
Graphite trans brace, B4 wing mount, 2 washers between motorplate and rear chassis.

Tires vary depending on track conditions, I've found that the stickier the track and tire- the more the buggy needs droop, where the B4/TLR etc transfer weight into forward momentum the RC10 and it's stubby arms and camberlinks and swept front arms transfer weight vertically more, and once the chassis has settled you can dig in- until then it feels like its riding "on" the track instead of "in" the track-
it also handles agressive air way way way better like this too-

Also, this buggy does well being thrown into everywhere- but 100% brake is too much, there are too many changes to the rear geometry under braking to go more than 80-85% without rotating a bunch.


Oh, and 10.5 (boosted LRP SXX V2.2 w/LRP Stock Spec 10.5) at 81/21---81/19

Surprising to me, I tried to run the car limited out- low and hugged down on high bite, and found it tremendously skatey everywhere, where my B4.1 just developed more corner speeds the CE lost it-

kaiser wrote:would a b4 cone washer fit behind the pin?

btw, my iphone doesn't take pics like that.

Not sure, but would be tight. Will try. Which iphone do you have?

4.

you could also take a set of those cone washers and sand down the flat side. just a thought, those thin axel shims worry me on the wheel side, we've all done it but theres got to be a better way. i bet custom works has something that would fit.

Pretty close to that Reg. 25 blocks on the front. I do have the 1.32 shafts in the rear with 3 large downstops. Had new 1.32s so I used them. Any differences there over using the shorter 1.02 shafts?

fundamentally, no. the shock piston will just ride in a different spot in the shock body.

jwscab wrote:fundamentally, no. the shock piston will just ride in a different spot in the shock body.

I think though in the case of the buggy with 1.32/1.32 you can slap the piston into the shock cap on uneven landings (side to side) I seem to remember having to add a bump stop between the bottom shaft and cup.

kaiser wrote:4.

you could also take a set of those cone washers and sand down the flat side. just a thought, those thin axel shims worry me on the wheel side, we've all done it but theres got to be a better way. i bet custom works has something that would fit.

0 shims and just a touch of wiggle room. I did have to remove the crush tube which was just pushing the bearing just enough to keep the solid pin from sliding into the axle. Should be a bit better.