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So I've been working my Graphite Team over pretty good (and it's only just beginning), but am concerned about tearing my chassis apart any further... Years of abusing it as a kid have led to the graphite plies separating at the very tip of the nose, and several layers are worn through at the apex of the kick-up at the front of the chassis.

I've decided I want this thing to be a runner (vintage, 1/10th scale 2WD, everything) but want to preserve the chassis as much as reasonably possible.

Has anyone made a nose plate for their RC10 Graphite? I was planning on getting some ~3/32" aluminum and garage-fabbing a skid plate that runs from the bellcrank screws all the way to the front, wrapping up in front of the tip of the chassis (much like a long, aluminum version of the RPM Shorty front bumper... or the gold pan front chassis piece). If so, share some tips and pics!

I've also thought about taking it over to a friend who does carbon fiber work to have the plies cleaned out and slathered with some fresh resin. Not sure if this is the route I want to take, though.

i'd just lay down a sheet of clear chassis protector and put an rpm bumper up front.

Maybe your buddy could just put a fresh later of carbon on the bottom?

Thanks for the tips - sadly, the stick-on film probably won't adhere very well due to the worn-down, uneven surface at the apex... I've thought about adding another couple layers as well, but I'd rather not molest its originality if it doesn't come out right.

I found some scrap aluminum, so I think I'm gonna tinker with that route a bit.

I mulled this over months back and I found this for a rc12l4...
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/4560/
I decided against it since I didn't want to drill the chassis and figured they'd just fall off otherwise. In your case since it's delaminating, maybe they'll stay on without drilling? It's worth a shot I suppose

I'll 2nd the RPM shorty bumper, that's what I have on my graphite at the moment

Another option is to build a long bumper from kydex sheet, incorporate the bellcrank mounting screws as well as the normal three bumper screws, so, like a shorty bumper that extends all the way back to the bellcrank. you can heat kydex and bend it quite nicely. It's easy to cut and shape also.

I used an RPM bumper along with a layer of 2" wide electrical tape covering the bottom of the chassis. Nose and the bottom still look almost good as new after years of racing back in the early 90's.

Thanks for all the tips guys - it sounds like I need to track down some Kydex and experiment with it. The electrical tape route might be good for temporary track use as well.

I went ahead and made an aluminum skid anyway just for grins, and got a little carried away with it...





Serves as good just-dicking-around protection, and is attached via the steering screws and front body post screw. Light pattern ended up being absolutely perfect for driving around in the street at night. First soldering/EE job in a long-ass time... Finished up the light controller (for use with channel 3) last night using an old stripped AE servo.

While the paint fully cures on the skid ('tis but a beater thing, after all), I've finally been fitting the V2 shocks, new shock towers, and a whole bunch of other crap to the car.