RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just got my first original RC10 to complete the set of AE 2wd buggies.
It's not great but it'll do the job since I want to be able to thrash it on the track. Came with the chassis, nose plate and motor plate painted blue so didn't really know what I was getting. Don't get too many to choose from as most US sellers won't ship overseas.





As you can see the chassis is bent like a banana and the nose plate has been ground down on the front to remove the AE logo! Front body mount is stuffed but i've got some white nylon rod the right diameter to make a new one.

Stripped the paint off the chassis to reveal it's pretty badly hammered but that doesn't matter too much since I can race it without having to worry. Got it alot straighter too I think i'll be able to get it right with some more effort.



Didn't come with a body so i've got a Protech and a Viper on the way from Tower now, as well as a pair of new battery cups and wide front arms.
Needs a stealth gearbox but after reading the original stealth may not be up to running really fast motors i'm going to mount a B4 transmission in there by making a custom lower mount, top brace and motor plate.

Going to have to wait a while for those tower bits, still waiting on a package I ordered over a month ago..

Anyway I thought i'd have a go at making some 2.2" aluminium wheels for the RC10 in the original jellybean style so I can use new tyres. Looks pretty good I reckon, so I will make some rears later.


Test fitting to the B3

oooo they're nice

beautiful wheels....I would love to see your rear wheel design, and even possible purchase a set of 4 wheels from you. If you want to make more.

Wow, those wheels look great. I would possibly be interested in a set as well.

Problem is i'm just making them on a manual lathe, unfortunately it would probably cost more than anyone is willing to pay. Can't really compete with companies like JPS and their CNC lathes/mills.

Here's the rear wheels, unfortunately stuffed up milling the first slot in the 2nd wheel so rather than scrap it I had a go making it into a 5 spoke design, might make a set of those, and will make the 4th jellybean wheel too.

I also might be able to get some more CNC machined for me yet to find out how much it would cost though.

Those wheels look GREAT!

Very nice job.

Bugle wrote:Problem is i'm just making them on a manual lathe, unfortunately it would probably cost more than anyone is willing to pay. Can't really compete with companies like JPS and their CNC lathes/mills.

Hey don't underestimate the nutties on this forum
Put up your price and some nice pics, you'd be surprised with the number of orders you'd get with such good work.
(just be carefull: no more 5 spokes )

Yeah, that's an awesome job! Shoot me an estimate of the price for a set, I'd be more than happy to have those wheels, especially the 5 spoke, I really dig them!

Thanks for the comments

Yeah i'll think about it, guess I could make them faster if I made some cutting tools specifically for the job and made a bunch of wheels at once. Or if I can get them CNC machined even better..

Almost finished painting the protech body waiting on some other bits and i'll chuck the RC10 together to see how the wheels look on that!

I would take a full set of spokes....I like the kidney beans also, but I am not that picky.

Wow, I'm loving the five spokes as well as the jellybeans. Those would look absolutely dynamite with a gold anodized finish.

I think for anodising they should be 2 piece with just the anodised centres like tecnacraft. Making the whole thing gold might look a bit weird. I'll have to try it but think I will buy a big hole saw so I don't waste heaps of aluminium turning a solid bar into a hollow tube. It's bloody expensive stuff!

Ended up with a nice nose plate and chassis with mainly light scratching and some extra holes drilled in it, way better than the first one. Stripped the paint off the motor plate to reveal it's almost perfect. Then cleaned all the nylon bits and reassembled except for the empty gearbox.
Changed my mind about the 6 gear trans after pulling it down and finding why it was so tight. The outdrive seal things were packed full of grease which gave heaps of resistance and for some reason they had left out one of the thrust washers on the top shaft along with the outer bush for the top shaft inner shaft. They were nice enough to use the thrust washer as a body post spacer so I didn't have to find another one. Have drilled the idlers and one of the top shaft bearing holders to take 3/8" OD unflanged bearings (cheaper) and am using a single inner bearing and a 3/8x5/8 outer bearing on the outdrives. Next job is to reassemble it all.

Painted the body in my interpretation of an 80's paint job and took some pics!