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Here’s my 10T racer…

I got the roller from “gomachv” about a month ago (thanks!), it was in pretty decent shape and only needed a light rebuild. Besides the body, tires and wheels everything else used in this build was recycled or stuff I had lying around. I’m sure most of you don’t care for the modern JC Finnisher truck body but since I plan racing it I didn’t want to ruin an original body or even a $40 re-pop (It’s actually starting to grow on me). Also I had no idea that Fascolor florescent red would end up looking so pink before I painted it. Doh!

The trans is updated with a B4 top shaft, vts slipper and diff rebuild with ceramic balls / sanded rings (butter smooth). And the shocks recieved Ghea delrin #2 tapered pistons, fresh o-rings and 12mm BB springs. I also switched out most of the hardware to stainless/aluminum to give all the black parts some contrast. For electronics I used a LRP SXX TC Spec speed control, Reedy Sonic 9.5, Savox 1251 Servo (mounted vertically), Orion 4000 90c shorty pack and an Airtronics 92744 receiver. The only things left to add are a RPM mini front bumper, some chassis tape and to dial-in the setup.

It’s first race is this Saturday, I can’t wait to see the other racer’s faces when they figure out I’m running a twenty year old truck... And hopefully beating a few of them in the process.

Looks Beastie! Good luck Saturday.

GreenHell wrote: Also I had no idea that Fascolor florescent red would end up looking so pink before I painted it. Doh!

you weren't the first to figure this out and won't be the last . For future reference though if you shoot the red really thin and back it with black it darkens it up to a deeper 'pink' than yours . I've had and seen alot of posts on this color and think it would be easier to have fascolor rename it 'pink' than to try to get it to show up red. I'm likin the body as is though and have no qualms about pink. Its not a popular color but its easy to see out under the lights during the summer. Likin the whole truck...let us know how you do Saturday

Todd

GreenHell wrote:
It’s first race is this Saturday, I can’t wait to see the other racer’s faces when they figure out I’m running a twenty year old truck... And hopefully beating a few of them in the process.

I've always wondered. If you can get the suspension geometry and valving correct for the truck and track, and the power to the ground why couldn't these hang with the new trucks?

Looks good all blacked out and modern looking. Not a fan of those bodies yet either but they'll grow on me. Overall cool truck, good luck at the races

romulus22 wrote:

GreenHell wrote:
It’s first race is this Saturday, I can’t wait to see the other racer’s faces when they figure out I’m running a twenty year old truck... And hopefully beating a few of them in the process.

I've always wondered. If you can get the suspension geometry and valving correct for the truck and track, and the power to the ground why couldn't these hang with the new trucks?

Looks good all blacked out and modern looking. Not a fan of those bodies yet either but they'll grow on me. Overall cool truck, good luck at the races

They do hang with the new stuff-

I found adding 1/2 ounce to the inside of the nose lip in addition to what you have made a big difference in low and mid corner entry when running 30* caster- and it loves LWB in the rear

Very cool! What was the reason for the upright servo?

You need this colour: http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/fasfluorescent-red?pp=15&pp=15

I have a feeling this is what you used: http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/fasescent-red?pp=15&pp=15

slotcarrod wrote:Very cool! What was the reason for the upright servo?

Because that's the way it should have been in the very first place, so the arc of the servo arm mirrors that in a bellcrank...

smart thinking and neat looking truck! if the roll centers are adequate to modern tires' grip, and if weight distro is correct (Reggie hinted at a fix), then no reason it can't perform just as well as the newer stuff (within reasonable limits, of course)

KEep us posted!

Paul

Thanks Guys...

slotcarrod wrote:Very cool! What was the reason for the upright servo?

You need this colour: http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/fasfluorescent-red?pp=15&pp=15

I have a feeling this is what you used: http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/fasescent-red?pp=15&pp=15

Actually #40105 was the paint I used, I must have not put it down heavy enough. I’m still getting use to spraying with waterbase paint.

As Paul mentioned it just made more sense to position it that way. When I mounted the servo laying down I couldn't get the “throw” right without putting a kink in the linkage or mounting it on an angle. And the Savox 1251 is so short it didn’t raise the CG much when I stood it up.

Lonestar wrote:

slotcarrod wrote:Very cool! What was the reason for the upright servo?

Because that's the way it should have been in the very first place, so the arc of the servo arm mirrors that in a bellcrank...

smart thinking and neat looking truck! if the roll centers are adequate to modern tires' grip, and if weight distro is correct (Reggie hinted at a fix), then no reason it can't perform just as well as the newer stuff (within reasonable limits, of course)

KEep us posted!

Paul

Thanks! I understand now, but does this small benefit outweigh the lower center of gravity? Why would they not design the new B/T4.2 series with this? I would prefer a lower CG IMO!

it doesn't really matter how you mount a servo, as long as the servo is in the middle of it's travel when the steering rack is in 'center' position, and the servo arm is at a rt angle to it's link arm.

Track Report:

Unfortunately the Stadium Class turnout has been really “hit or miss” lately and I didn’t race it. But I was able to get some track time with it and my first impression was good. I had guessed on the shock piston/spring/oil combination and it seemed to get me in the ballpark. The truck is very easy to drive through the technical section and soaks up the jumps nice.
The only area the needs a little work is keeping the truck from over rotating when entering the high speed sweeper (some of that could be me trying to drive it like a buggy ). After I dialed out some steering it got better (this thing has a ton). Will post more updates as I get the setup sorted out. The best part was all the compliments the truck got in the pits, retro is cool!

ha! 10t's never had a shortage in the steering dept.
thats one of the things i love about them.

jwscab wrote:it doesn't really matter how you mount a servo, as long as the servo is in the middle of it's travel when the steering rack is in 'center' position, and the servo arm is at a rt angle to it's link arm.

Hi Joe

I think it actually does... obviously if the center-to-center rule isn't applied, then the result is so poor that the "arc-to-arc" thing doesn't matter, obviously... But having the "arc-to-arc" right allows a more linear relationship between the steering input and response... otherwise the transfer functions are full of trigonometric idiosyncracies. Then again, (1) later in the chain you have the bellcrank to wheel transfer function, which in itself is funny and (2) most of us can't drive to save our lives, so what a difference does it make in "real" life, I'm not sure

Paul

lonestar, you're right, it isn't exactly perfect, but it's as near as it's going to be, so long as you follow the couple things I said, for all intents and purposes. the arc travel is still the same no matter what, and the nonlinearity is swamped by the rest of the system for 'normal' operation, ie, human control.

Thats purty! I think I might have to build one of those too!