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OH NO! Don't boil yokomo bulkhead caps!

I learned that one on a set of early JRX2 wheels

Great idea for a topic; post your biggest screw-ups! Let's be honest, we've ALL effed something up a time or two, haven't we?

Ever spray a dirt thrasher with motor cleaner? I did. Once. The parts turned white, thought it was strange. Went to drive it and the first bump the car literally shattered into a million pieces. I wish I had taken a pic.

i have a front cap to replace the melted one if you want it. got a rear one too, but it has 2 holes drilled in it.

scr8p wrote:i have a front cap to replace the melted one if you want it. got a rear one too, but it has 2 holes drilled in it.

That's really kind of you Jason, I may have to take you up on the offer

This was also the final step of a restore that's been going on for 5+ years, typical The challenge now is restoring them back to original shape

Oh you don't need to boil the peroxyde to rewhite the parts,

Only put in a closed bottle under the sun, 1 or 2 days according to the color you need...

prp wrote:Oh you don't need to boil the peroxyde to rewhite the parts,

Only put in a closed bottle under the sun, 1 or 2 days according to the color you need...

After treatment you need to let the peroxide clear from the parts, i do this by boiling them afterwards to speed up the process. if you don't and you put them near anodized parts the peroxide vapors will remove the anodized finish.

It's a known issue.

Flush under the tap for about 10 minutes. That should be enough (at least, it was enough to remove the peroxyde from biological tissues at the lab some year ago when I did that ).

I once tried to dye some wheels black. I used a recommended product yet it turned out terrible. The white wheels ened up patchy dark blue / black. I decided there and then I would never trust any sort of dye again. I am only glad the wheels in question were not rare or expensive! No way I'll be boiling any plastic parts either! Way too dangerous for me.

kink wrote:I once tried to dye some wheels black. I used a recommended product yet it turned out terrible. The white wheels ened up patchy dark blue / black. I decided there and then I would never trust any sort of dye again. I am only glad the wheels in question were not rare or expensive! No way I'll be boiling any plastic parts either! Way too dangerous for me.

Plastic parts shouldn't be boiled. Nylon is good to go, though.

err.....well.....nylon is a plastic.

so you are OK to boil nylon, pure nylon, not a blend, as it has a higher melting point, and in fact can absorb water, helping to make it flexible. Other plastic blends and pure plastic types (such as ABS) have a lower melting point, which is the other popular injection molded toy/hobby plastic. These blends do not absorb water and will start deforming as evidenced above around 200 degrees (F).

ill have a front and rear for ya as soon as i get the rpm kit from prp