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Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:40 am
by Mattwarner
Hi all,
I am from the UK and having got back into RC Fast Electric Boats for a few years i decided to dust off the old RC10 i used to race when i was in my early teens.
I have posted before however i need a bit of help identifying whats what on this buggy as its a bit of a mish mash between buggy and truck parts from what i can see.
Last year i installed a 13t brushless motor/esc combo and run it on 3s and its fair to say its pretty uncontrollable to the point where i ran it full speed into the car wheel and snapped the chassis in half! ive now repaired the chassis and stripped it down ready to rebuild.
I need to get replacement screws as most are rounded off, and i want to replace with stainless being in the UK its difficult to get imperial size so would appreciate some help!
Chassis will be sanded down and clear coated to hopefully give it a nice finish (top side only)
Heres what i have at the moment
Plan is going to be:
stainless screws
new bearings
new turnbuckles
carbon towers, tranny brace and battery holder
new wheels and road tyres
new servo
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:07 am
by Phin
Looks like those are pre-RC10T RPM Truck arms....meaning they're arms for converting the buggy to a truck. Front tower looks custom and I don't know who made the steering bellcranks but I'm thinking maybe they're from a Losi

Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:19 am
by THUNDERSTRIKE1
Belcranks are 10T units just cut down to work and use losi style . lol
They had to mount the front bulkhead and tower on backwards so it didnt enterfeer with the steering setup.lol don
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:33 am
by scr8p
I'd get a proper buggy bellcrank, and flip the bulkhead and tower so the shocks can be mounted correctly.
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:39 am
by Mattwarner
Thanks guys looks like I e got my work cut out to get is back up and running correctly!
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:09 pm
by Mattwarner
made a bit of progress in between my wife having a baby!
Decided against clear coating the chassis as i didnt want issues with it flaking off so wet and dry sanded it and then polished up with some compound, and its come up much better than before although pictures are rubbish.
Got the front bulkhead and shock tower mounted the correct way around although this not presents a problem as pointed out earlier with the bellcrank hitting the front bulkhead/arms
This wont be a restoration job anymore as i just cant find parts in the UK, a correct bellcrank is $64 which is ridiculous for a bit of plastic so iam either going to cut down or retro fit a replacement, what do you guys reckon i should do?
there is also the turnbuckles to replace here are current lengths, any ideas on what newish models i can swap them out for as parts for b4's are easy to find in the uk although still expensive compared to traxxas etc.

Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:24 pm
by Phin
Just noticed that your dogbones are awfully close to popping out of the outdrive cups with the car sitting on the table. Do they stay in when the arms are at full droop?
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:36 pm
by upforit365
Matt, drop me a pm. Am in the Uk too, done most of what you are trying to do, so can give you some pointers.....
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 2:51 am
by Mattwarner
Phin wrote:Just noticed that your dogbones are awfully close to popping out of the outdrive cups with the car sitting on the table. Do they stay in when the arms are at full droop?
I noticed this too but don't have a problem with them popping out although they have on the odd occasion, do you think this is down to the longer arms maybe it's running buggy dogbones? I can measure them if that would help
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 2:59 am
by GoMachV
For the servo saver, just use t2/DS/gt bellcranks plastics with your existing hardware. They fit right on a buggy and they parts shouldn't be too expensive.
Team associated #7531. Here it is on the Tower Hobbies site:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3358

Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:34 am
by Caine
Hi Matt i'm in the UK as well and i know your pain when it comes to come shipping costs etc. Its unfortunate as some US sellers charge the earth anyway and i have refused to pay some shipping costs that they have wanted.
However even the honest ebay sellers and the good folks from this site are now getting squeezed as the international postage rates are going sky high
Some bits you do have to hunt for, however for parts still in production i use liquid rc.com as they have flat rate 99 cents shipping to the uk.
http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2681665_143&sort=20a&filter_id=32&page=2
Also cml distribution in the uk do still have some bits like wishbones etc in stock
Of course the odd parts do still come on ebay in the uk, you just have to keep checking back
Have fun, its an addiction that hard to keep under control

Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 12:06 pm
by Phin
Mattwarner wrote:
I noticed this too but don't have a problem with them popping out although they have on the odd occasion, do you think this is down to the longer arms maybe it's running buggy dogbones? I can measure them if that would help
You are supposed to use longer dogbones with those arms (I think Yokomo?) but you could also try B3 rear hub carriers. B3 carriers would make the rear narrower which wouldn't be horrible since you're probably over legal buggy length with those arms anyway. Then you could narrow up the front too by using B4 front wheels.
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 12:23 pm
by scr8p
gomachv wrote:For the servo saver, just use t2/DS/gt bellcranks plastics with your existing hardware. They fit right on a buggy and they parts shouldn't be too expensive.
Team associated #7531. Here it is on the Tower Hobbies site:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3358

Those are fine on a tub chassis. But on a graphite chassis, the truck/ds nose plate screws have nothing to tighten into, and you cant put a nut between the chassis and bellcrank because the screws aren't threaded high enough.
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 1:18 pm
by jwscab
it depends on what kinds of stuff you can get in the UK reasonably priced. Here is an example of some traxxas parts you can use for the bellcrank system:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=16582&hilit=traxxas+bellcrank
what other models can you can get parts for reasonably?
Re: Matts RC10 resto
Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 4:39 am
by Mattwarner
I can find b3/b4 parts everywhere and most other newish models, those traxxas parts seem to be out of stock everywhere in the uk
Thanks for all your advice so far, gonna try cutting down my existing ones till I can find something suitable, will keep you all posted on updates