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Few questions

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:21 pm
by DMAT
So I want to change the battery placement on my gold pan from being across the body to run with the body. Now i can make that happen with out issue but the futuba esc i have that mounts the same as the steering servo has no place to go that can mount properly. Im wanting to change this b/c all the batteries i have are too long but cant see an easy fix beside some 2 sided tape. Is there any other way to mount the esc properly? would modifying the rear shock tower to have a mounting spot take it too far from the stock appearance. I did it on my graphite chassis with an inverted battery cup to create a mounting surface for the velineon 3s esc but it stands out a lot. Im trying to keep this A stamp gold pan close to stock. no upgrading it like my graphite chassis.

I keep seeing these CVD kits and im just wondering why people prefer them over the dogbones.

speaking of dogbones, I keep having mine come dislocated from the transmission end of them. I can't force them in after they are out so im not sure whats happening when it comes lose. Any Idea on how to stop this, would the CVD kits help out? I have orded a 3/16" axle kit for one of my cars to see if i can get traxxas wheels running right so a CVD may not work then.

When disassembling my gold pan. a spring fell out of each side in the rear. I didnt see from where and i dont see them on the exploded views of the car assemblies. Where do they go?

thanks in advance, dmat

Re: Few questions

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:34 pm
by scr8p
DMAT wrote:So I want to change the battery placement on my gold pan from being across the body to run with the body. Now i can make that happen with out issue but the futuba esc i have that mounts the same as the steering servo has no place to go that can mount properly. Im wanting to change this b/c all the batteries i have are too long but cant see an easy fix beside some 2 sided tape. Is there any other way to mount the esc properly? would modifying the rear shock tower to have a mounting spot take it too far from the stock appearance. I did it on my graphite chassis with an inverted battery cup to create a mounting surface for the velineon 3s esc but it stands out a lot. Im trying to keep this A stamp gold pan close to stock. no upgrading it like my graphite chassis.

being as though an a stamp rc10 didn't come with radio gear, there is no "stock" way. do what you gotta do to make the stuff fit.

I keep seeing these CVD kits and im just wondering why people prefer them over the dogbones.

they're far more efficient than dogbones and stub axles, and if a ball cup pops off, you won't lose a dogbone.

speaking of dogbones, I keep having mine come dislocated from the transmission end of them. I can't force them in after they are out so im not sure whats happening when it comes lose. Any Idea on how to stop this, would the CVD kits help out? I have orded a 3/16" axle kit for one of my cars to see if i can get traxxas wheels running right so a CVD may not work then.

you need to limit the amount of droop in your suspension so they can't fall out.

When disassembling my gold pan. a spring fell out of each side in the rear. I didnt see from where and i dont see them on the exploded views of the car assemblies. Where do they go?

inside the rear stub axles. if you don't have them in, that could be helping the dogbones pop out too.


thanks in advance, dmat

Re: Few questions

Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:36 pm
by GoMachV
The ballpoint pen springs go in the axles before the dogbones and force them into the trans. That would be why they are popping out. Too much droop will also make that occur.

As far as the esc, we mounted them to the shock tower bitd so if your keeping it period correct that is fine. As far as bolting it down, we never really did. A shelf is period correct as well, that was pretty common.

Cvd's have many benefits, but I think many use them as they are easily rebuildable and the same cost as the old universals. Not much more than new bones and axles would have cost.

Scr8ps too fast for me....doh!

Re: Few questions

Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:03 am
by SoAzRC
... x2 on the pen springs. I use old shock o-rings. They fit nicely in the stub axle cup and keep the dogbone snug against the transmission cups. They also don't fly everywhere when you disassemble...

Re: Few questions

Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:52 pm
by DMAT
I have a set of bolink wheel/tires, they are like foam on the outside, what kind of racing were they for?

Re: Few questions

Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:59 pm
by RC10th
Dirt oval racing.

Re: Few questions

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 10:05 pm
by DMAT
thanks guys

heres another one. Found some front stub axles that almost fit the carrier ( the end stub going thru is too big a diameter) but it doesnt have the hole drilled thru for the pin to go thru to connect to the other part.

is there a front carrier that doesnt have the pin running thru the axle but to the side or something?

Re: Few questions

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 10:49 pm
by scr8p
short arm cars had offset knuckles.

Re: Few questions

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:32 pm
by DMAT
scr8p wrote:short arm cars had offset knuckles.
short arm cars?

still new to this stuff, most of its older than me

Re: Few questions

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:38 pm
by discgolfer72
short front arms on the right long front on left

Image

Re: Few questions

Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:52 pm
by DMAT
i have a car with each of those arms. both carriers still require the kingpin to go thru the carrier to lock into the caster.

any idea which model had a carrier with the kingpin offset away from the axle. These front axles have the hex shaped portion on them.

Re: Few questions

Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:35 am
by scr8p
DMAT wrote:any idea which model had a carrier with the kingpin offset away from the axle.
cars with short arms used offset knuckles. wide arms used inline knuckles and axles.

Re: Few questions

Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:03 pm
by DMAT
so i looked at the rc10, b2, and b3 carriers. they all appear to have inline carriers.

The B4 carrier was offset but does it work with the original caster or do i need to get a b4 caster too?

My local stores dont carry associated parts so All i can reference is the online pics before i buy.

Re: Few questions

Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:45 pm
by DMAT
alright, so i found a hobby store a few towns aways. I went and they had an assortment of older part. Well, I found a stealth tranny case among a few other things and would like to start making it. Ive been looking for an exploded view of the case but so far have only found the instructions on how to build and not the big picture of it all together.

I've tried associated site but im not seeing it.

well back to the point. Is there anything I should regarding the stealth transmission?

I know i need to redo a the hole pattern on the chassis so it will mount. I found a jig for that.

I know i need a new brace and have ordered one.

does the 6 gear metal plate also mount to the stealth transmission?

I'm still trying get the internals for the transmission so ive got some time before im looking to build it.

the new hobby store i went too does have some b2 stealth cases which im guessing is the hardest part to find. if you have any interest, ill send you his info.

Re: Few questions

Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:02 pm
by scr8p
a lot of the 2.25 stealth stuff is discontinued.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=1640

you'll have to drill and tap an extra mounting hole in a 6 gear motor plate.

i don't know exactly why you're bringing up a b2 trans case, but if that's the "stealth" case you got, it's not the one for your car.