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Can we discuss which items wear out fastest on RC10s in general with use. Plus which items seem to last ages? Plus in particular which items in the stealth transmission wear out? Plus how many spares you have for specific items? I have been building up a box of spares from scratch. I have various key items so far...




High wear items:

x4 Front axle sets
x2 Full bearing sets
x2 steering sets
x3 Rear axles / CVD sets

Stealth transmission:
x2 Full built 2.25 transmissions
x6 Diff gears
x6 Diff balls
x6 Outdrive sets total
x6 small ball sets
x4 clutch slippers (will get more - but how many?)
x8 Spur gears



Low wear items:

x2 Suspension arm sets
x1 Shock shaft / seals / pistons sets
x1 Shock towers
x1 A&L full kit



More spares needed:

Idler gears
Input shaft gears
Dampers all round
Loads of tyres
Another body
Lots of wheel options on the way, but more wanted



What do you think? Do I have enough spares for some? Not enough? Too much? Thoughts appreciated...

In three years of running RC10's and RC10t's most of the year-

1.5 degree toe blocks (2)
Front bulkhead (buggy)
FRP front tower

That's it...and they were all white parts, since adding black parts...no failures

Really? No worn out gears, bearings, clutches or anythng like that at all?

Charlie don't surf wrote:In three years of running RC10's and RC10t's most of the year-

1.5 degree toe blocks (2)
Front bulkhead (buggy)
FRP front tower

That's it...and they were all white parts, since adding black parts...no failures

i agree

these things are tanks

i have a 9 turn brushed 6 gear
nothing has been replaced in the 4 years its been bashed at the local park (and i mean bashed hard)

and a couple of brush lees stealth cars in the same boat

i think out off all my cars the only thing that ever breaks is the front and rear axle carriers where the ball studs screw in (and that was on parts assembled by someone els)
i think that breakage is due to the builder horsing down the ball studs causing fatigue on the part



i even ran the 9 turn 6 gear full bore into a brick retaining wall
bent the nose back down and kept on chugging (did have to replace the nose brace tubes hen i got home tho lol)

i do however about every 10 times out take the trans appart and re lube everything and confirm everything is like it should be
and all my cars are full sealed bearing's (i even run bearings instead of the dust seals on the6 gear outdrives)

on a side note
same 9 turn setup on a traxxas bandit
5 mins into the run all i got was wirrrrrrrr crunch crunch shredded the idler gear


as far as spares (dont consider these spares more like parts to make shure new cars have all the parts lol)
99.9% of this is rc10 parts (rest is rc10gt and electronics)

Cool. Sounds like i may have gone over the top on spares then. Oh well. My plan was to buy loads now while they are still available and stash them away. Then I can run the car for as long as I want, many years into the future. I guess if I find I am simply not using them up I'll ebay them, or part them here in years to come.

if your still running dog bones you might want a few extras on hand

i have never broke any but have thrown a few never to be found again in the tall grass

I ran an original 6-gear through several hundred battery packs and the only wear was the outdrives and stub axles. The BROKEN parts are what really mattered back then. Mostly the dogbones and tie-rods. But that was with the older stock motors. The only parts that I would ever worry about are gears. They seem to be getting crazy in price.

I would get rear suspension mounts, idlers gears (if you have the old black ones, because I run mine dry), and many extra e clips for the hinge pins. Not much else! Give er!

Hinge pins, front shock tower, diff rings, turnbuckles, 6 gear idlers;

If your really rough I'd add rear arm mounts and front arms to the list.

Thanks guys. I dont have any hinge pins as I thought they would be impossible to break. I'll get some!