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so ive had a rustler vxl for a few years now. Well recently, ive started having an issue where its starting to pull in one direction no matter how i tweek the steering. My guess is its the differential so I'm wondering if there is any advice you could give me before i just gut the transmission and replace the internals.

I'm probably going to replace the rear arms as the ones I have seem to have lost their tolerance around the kingpins and keep knocking the e-clips off.

The traxxas dif is a very simple unit dmat.the only thing to do is take it apart clean check bearings regrease and reinstall oh and check the gears for missing teeth.use a auto type grease but not alot just enough to give it some lube.to much will make it sluggish.i run the rpm case because i like the aluminum plate to hold the bushless in place and it acts as a heat sink.i pull alot of high speed runs and no issues at all.i also like the degree a arm mounts you can change.for the money i would rather have that than any other.
Now for your pins.loose them! Get the anza pins with the lock nut! Never worry about e clips again.other companys make them but i use there parts to build a lcg chassis custom race slash so i like there parts.harden as well.they have other nice parts as well.i cant remember the price but they were not that much.i know you can order them from hobby town online.i got them at the store.

The issue is potentially something else, like for example more resistance on one wheel than the other due to broken bearings or something is catching like a pin that's backing out.

If you want a better diff that gives you some limited slip action, you could try the sealed Hot Racing diff case, I use it myself and it is GREAT! Really GREAT!

One thing though, the diff seeps if built as per instructions:



If you built it with thread seal tape or black silicone sealant it won''t leak:



Apply the tape to where the arrow is pointing Ignore how I applied it there.

That is a nice diff my friend has one.i have the proline trans in my slash race truuck i love that but at$100 a pop i won't buy another for a speed runner.

this is all for a basher but this one was actually quite short lived. I completely replaced the trans and all gearing at one point when I figuratively ripped the car a new one in a crash. It prolly doesnt have but at best a few hours on it.

Im probably best off just replacing all internal gears and put some nicer ones in. I know there are some steel tooth gears for the trans so im gonna look into those.

The thing taking the most abuse in my setup is the slipper at moment which I quite often leave smoking when ive stopped running it. I usually replace the slipper pads and plate when i redo the spur gear. I'll probably add 1/8th turn or so to my slipper to stiffen it up more. I should drop my gearing some too. hitting 60 mph while bashing it around is overkill when i wreck.

If your slipper is taking that much abuse, you should get the STRC top shaft that lets you run a B4 slipper and spur.

Is the strc top shaft with the b4 slipper a better set up?cause i would try that on my stampede .will it hold up to high speed runs and bashing abuse better? Dmat i took my rusty out in a huge parking lot in ocean city maryland no cars at all well my rusty found the only parking marker and 90$ later was good as new lol lost signal so how so now i have the 2.4 setup no issues since.

I haven't tried the B4 slipper yet mod yet but I plan to as soon as amain gets the top shafts back in stock. The B4 unit is supposed to be able to take a ton of power.

when i said figuratively ripped it a new one. I destroyed the wheelie bar. Ripped the rear left arm off the car. pull a good bit of the shock tower with it. Bent the motor all the way down the middle. Destroyed a wheel, I'm guessing at impact, some of the parts just went flying b/c I never recovered them.

It was not a cheap fix sadly.

On a side note, I actually have a b4 topshaft and the equipment for a vts conversion for it. So I might put the setup into it as a test.