RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Voracious reader, first time poster - this site is craaaazy, I love it! The first few times here I literally got lightheaded because it brought back so many sights/memories/feelings/smells from my childhood. Solder and shock oil...mmmmmm...

A few weeks ago I was back at my childhood home and I dug out my old RC10 Team Car that I only ran about a dozen times. Decided it must breath again. Missing a few basic parts, but I went to the local hobby and got most. Gonna order the remaining parts/electronics and do the build next time I am back. I can't believe how much more performance you get nowadays, and at really fair prices. A lot has changed!

A few questions I have (tried search/google but to no avail so any and all help greatly appreciated):

1) Do any of the RC10GT parts (think steering knuckles, hubs, steering assembly, shock mounts etc) work with the older RC10s? I see a few sites that have nice metal parts for GTs and wondering if any will work on my car. Similar, do any new parts (B2, B3, B4 etc) have applications in the older cars? I heard the B2/3 wheels for example are a direct replacement (please correct me if I'm wrong) but couldn't find anything more detailed.

2) I noticed a lot of the Team Cars on here have white parts, mine has black - when did they switch? Just trying to get a date on what year my car is from.

3) I am thinking of going with the JC Racing 5 spoke wheels all around (I am currently missing my front wheels/tires/bearings). I hear these are direct replacements - but what tires will work on them (front and rear)? I am a little confused between the old and new tires (seems like heights and widths have changed since the 90's - something about 2.2s and hex nuts???) so I just want to make sure I get the right ones.

4) I am thinking for electronics (please comment if you've had any really bad exp with these, or if there is any issues with this setup):
LiPo 2S battery
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2S-7-4V-5000mAh-40C-80C-FUSION-Hard-Case-RC-LiPo-Battery-Pack-Original-Deans-/290871363573?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555003%26algo%3DPW.CAT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D142%26meid%3D7135556991125022849%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1076%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D200916008956%26

Savox 1257TG steering servo
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1257TG_Digital_Servo_p/savsc1257tg.htm

FlySky radio
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html

I cannot decide on an ESC/motor combo. I don't want to totally break the bank but I want something that will be "raceable" for vintage class. My question is what are the pro's currently running, and how much difference given today's tech does going from a $150 ESC/motor pair to a $300 ESC/motor pair make?

Thanks in advance for all the help!

frgna wrote:Voracious reader, first time poster - this site is craaaazy, I love it! The first few times here I literally got lightheaded because it brought back so many sights/memories/feelings/smells from my childhood. Solder and shock oil...mmmmmm...

A few weeks ago I was back at my childhood home and I dug out my old RC10 Team Car that I only ran about a dozen times. Decided it must breath again. Missing a few basic parts, but I went to the local hobby and got most. Gonna order the remaining parts/electronics and do the build next time I am back. I can't believe how much more performance you get nowadays, and at really fair prices. A lot has changed!

A few questions I have (tried search/google but to no avail so any and all help greatly appreciated):

Welcome to RC10talk! We have a useful search feature, but unless your quite familiar with the site layout (what info is in what forum/sub-forum and such) it can be a pain, lots of guys do the google/piggyback search with pretty good results though so you were on the right track!

frgna wrote: 1) Do any of the RC10GT parts (think steering knuckles, hubs, steering assembly, shock mounts etc) work with the older RC10s?

The RC10gt parts that are direct carry-overs would be the caster blocks, steering knuckles, rear hubs (new bearing sizes are required though), shock caps, upper and lower shock bushings and shock internals, hardware and hinge pins, transmission topshaft (for stealth trans), servo mounts and bearings, but that's about it.

frgna wrote: Similar, do any new parts (B2, B3, B4 etc) have applications in the older cars?.

Most hardware, bearings, axels and hubs from the B2, B2/B3 CVD's and that's about it for direct fit

frgna wrote:I heard the B2/3 wheels for example are a direct replacement (please correct me if I'm wrong) but couldn't find anything more detailed.

They are as far as being correct offset to leave the suspension geometry as it was designed, however you need to change the rear hub and or bearings from 1/4" ID to 3/16" ID to accept the B2 wheel, as well as using a B2/B3 CVD set for the proper drive mating. Thunder Tiger makes the rear wheel still (for the Phoenix BXII)
and Duratrax makes the front for the Evader II, both dirt cheap and avail through places like Towerhobbies, the CVD kits are readily available in a few places as well. Alternatively, the JC racing (UK) makes a 2.2" wheel with the correct offset that looks like the old HPI wheels from the old days that fits without any changes at all-

frgna wrote: 2) I noticed a lot of the Team Cars on here have white parts, mine has black - when did they switch? Just trying to get a date on what year my car is from.

The 6035 RC10 Team car was released in 1991, and was produced until mid to late 1995. They all came with white nylon parts until late 1993/early 1994 when they started using the fiber reinforced black arms only while the remainder of the parts were the older white nylon. In or about late 1994, the 6037 RC10 Worlds car was transitioned to all black parts, as were the few 6035 RC10 Team Car kits.

Now, images of the car would help in determining more- but that's a rough timeline....don't forget, it was the "cool" thing to do back in the day to dye all the parts black...so your buggy may have started out white

frgna wrote:3) I am thinking of going with the JC Racing 5 spoke wheels all around (I am currently missing my front wheels/tires/bearings). I hear these are direct replacements - but what tires will work on them (front and rear)? I am a little confused between the old and new tires (seems like heights and widths have changed since the 90's - something about 2.2s and hex nuts???) so I just want to make sure I get the right ones..

Posted above

frgna wrote: 4) I am thinking for electronics (please comment if you've had any really bad exp with these, or if there is any issues with this setup):
LiPo 2S battery
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2S-7-4V-5000mAh-40C-80C-FUSION-Hard-Case-RC-LiPo-Battery-Pack-Original-Deans-/290871363573?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555003%26algo%3DPW.CAT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D142%26meid%3D7135556991125022849%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1076%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D200916008956%26

TONS of time to arrive sometimes. These are outstanding for the money http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-2s1p-hardcase-direct.html....you will have to move or modify your battery cup to accept most LiPo's though-

frgna wrote: Savox 1257TG steering servo
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1257TG_Digital_Servo_p/savsc1257tg.htm

Awesome servo for the money! Unless you ran $160 KO FET servos back in the day, you will never have had steering so fast! Airtronics has some digital servos that are competitively priced as well, but if your buying a bunch from HobbPartz anyway...

frgna wrote: FlySky radio
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html

I cannot decide on an ESC/motor combo. I don't want to totally break the bank but I want something that will be "raceable" for vintage class. My question is what are the pro's currently running, and how much difference given today's tech does going from a $150 ESC/motor pair to a $300 ESC/motor pair make?

Thanks in advance for all the help!

There are some big differences, mostly ease of adjustability and fine tuning options (that most won't/can't) use, smoother throttle and steering points and such. 99% of the Pro Drivers would do very close to the same with a FlySky radio as with what they are sponsored with, not saying that my Futaba's aren't superior (we still use a 1991 Magnum PCM 1024 to this day) but unless your a hard-core or serious club racer, it won't matter so much-

great answers from Reggie - just a note on the FS GT2 radio... I have one in one of my cars (my 6 yo daughter's ansmann madrat , actually ) and the response time is appalling, whether you're a hardcore racer or a weekend basher... Ditto on the GT3B, which I don't have myself, but I've tried at the track on one of my buddy's - there's a very "remote" feel when you're driving it, which goes away as soon as you swap the tx/rx with something else. The sanwa/airtronics MX3 is only $20 more, but it does provide a "proper" feel.

Welcome back to the hobby

Paul

Thanks so much Reggie and Paul - this is exactly what makes this site so great!

Reggie I'm the original owner of the car so the parts came black from TA - still have the original box too. So it sounds like it was made 1993-94 ish (I was about 10-11 at the time so that makes sense). I remember the B2 came out shortly thereafter (googled and looks like that was 1995) and took the RC world by storm and made me wished I had waited 6 months to buy an RC - but now I'm really happy to have an old school ride!

I'll try to have my brother take a few pics next time he is there, I am not sure when I'll be back yet so this may be a delayed build. WIll be shipping lots of parts to my parents' house in the meantime though.

Paul that is very good to know about the radio - no use buying a cheetah speed servo if the radio runs like an elephant! I really like the little Airtronics receivers too, so that's a double plus.

Will keep you updated!

I laughed at using original radio when i started using mine again. I just bought a 2nd reciever for the controller I have and put it on another profile for the rc10.

If im gonna run my car, I want the best control as possible b/c running out of range and the possible outcomes is worse than running a non time period correct radio.

At the same time, I had a controller already.

Welcome to rc10talk. Glad I came across this, good info. When the team car used a v shaped nose plate, with white worlds rear bulk head, would anyone know if it was a B stamp chassis, or should it have been a C stamp. I'm in the middle of piecing one together my self. Did not mean to take over here, but thought since its all about the same car, why not ask. Thanks.

Really, it would in all likelihood be a C, but NIP late B stamps with 6 gear delete holes would potentially be correct. That car would be with in worlds white/black trim. The very last all black car would be a C, V nose, B2 style collars and square camber links.

Charlie don't surf wrote:Really, it would in all likelihood be a C, but NIP late B stamps with 6 gear delete holes would potentially be correct. That car would be with in worlds white/black trim. The very last all black car would be a C, V nose, B2 style collars and square camber links.

(Jeff/GoMach V happened upon most of a car unbuilt, in packages like that)

Good to know, so I should then be adding in some black parts? or can I get away with all white.

I guess I should posts the parts I'm using for all to know. Late B stamp chassis, all white parts. Worlds rear bulk head, steering blocks for aluminum front axles, graphite tranny brace, V nose plate. Raised X rear arms. Thanks again

Depends on what other parts, tires etc you were using. **Yup, those work**

viper shell, 73/23 tires. My only thoughts are that the v nose would be to late for an all white car, but I guess anything goes with AE.

Hmmm? The Team Car was discontinued in 1994! No full black parts then! I suspect the car was dyed or you may have a worlds car! I would like to see pictures of a nib all black Team Car if this is not true!

slotcarrod wrote:Hmmm? The Team Car was discontinued in 1994! No full black parts then! I suspect the car was dyed or you may have a worlds car! I would like to see pictures of a nib all black Team Car if this is not true!

Jeff has most of one (or did) I remember specifically the two tone team cars in the 94' era, right from the box (with subsequent cars documented via eBay sales with matching parts variations) you've seen almost a dozen variations of the CE, 4-5 versions of the Edinger, 3 TQ10 chassis, 2 6030 versions etc....some things (like B2 type shock collars on the all black worlds car and square steel camber links) weren't released until after the B2...but the WC was discoed after that release-

I know for sure the CE, but the tub team car was discontinued right after the worlds car. They were only selling off old stock! Never seen a NIB to confirm any black parts on a team car!