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As various interesting chassis are being discussed in another thread, plus more chat in my wanted advert on the same subject, I started this thread...

Here we can chat about maybe making custom chassis. Anyone feel free to pitch in with examples they have made, or comissioned, or ideas for future
chassis builds, links to cool things to help out, such as tools, plans, whatever you want to mention....


ps

Initial chat and inspiration came from here...

Interesting chassis thread
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=31732

I have just started experimenting with making fiberglass and carbon fiber sheets, 2 done so far, learing as I go.

I once took a blue "team" GT chassis, welded unwanted hole's, drilled the needed ones, lightly sand blasted at my work, The friends who saw it, broke out in tear's, Long story short, in my scrap bucket. But I didn't really put my heart In it, I'm sure if I really wanted it to work, it would have

There were tons of different options made. Which ones would anyone want to see recreated?

I already asked Daryl if he could make an A&L Pro chassis again. It may be happening, but not sure when. I know the 30 degree composite sheets are available. So that chassis is top of my wish list. If anyone has a beaten up version to copy that would be awesome.

Second down would be an RC10 graphite repro. With the extra mounts required to fit A&L rear arms.

I've bean a little fixated on aluminum these days. So I wonder if its possible to cut aluminum with these pin routers. I know most woodworking machinery can to different degrees. But have any of you tried it?

Aluminum and fiberglass chassis that I've made were usually cut out with a band saw and sanded with drum sanders and disk sanders. A milling machine is also handy if you have access.

The pin router is great for duplicating a part.

For a "custom" chassis I usually cut a template out of card stock or a manilla folder and trace it onto the material to be cut, then bolt another chassis or drill guide to it to drill/mark the holes. Low tech but it has always worked for me.

I use NX8, a 3D design package. I'm in the fortunate position that i use it all day at work.
Not rc10 related but still AE.
Extended by B44.1 to +8, essentially making it a 44.2
My next project is going to be a CF SC10, the hardest thing with the plastic tube ae's is the kick in the nose.
I'm still not sure what i'm going yo do there. Maybe i could use the x factory nose piece.
Looking forward to other peoples creations and ideas.

I'll 2nd the A&L I'd like to do another custom truck though, like a T2 in CF

The SC10 and B4 have 25 degree front kicks. You can only get 30 degree front kick blanks which is fine for older cars but not current models. I'm building a car with a B4 front end but a B44 rear end and will have to use the X Factory nose as a result. The RC10GT2 nose should work for an SC10.

If chassis were reproduced would people want them in the old plain black color or in the modern carbon fiber weave pattern?

fredswain wrote:The SC10 and B4 have 25 degree front kicks. You can only get 30 degree front kick blanks which is fine for older cars but not current models. I'm building a car with a B4 front end but a B44 rear end and will have to use the X Factory nose as a result. The RC10GT2 nose should work for an SC10.

If chassis were reproduced would people want them in the old plain black color or in the modern carbon fiber weave pattern?

Is the X Factory kick 25 or 30 deg?
I could make a custom aluminium one but that's a lot of work. I would prefer something off the shelf if it's going to be consumable.

It's 25 degree.

Thanks, that's good to know. I might press on now with a CF SC10.