RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've decided to give powder coating a shot. I bought a powder coating gun last week, but I'm too nervous to try it on some chassis I already own, so I picked up this Ultima as a guinea pig. This Ultima is pretty rough. I plan on removing the silver spray paint that someone thought would look cool, then I'll try to smooth the bottom of the chassis and then powder coat it and just get it all cleaned up and sell it off.

So here's what I'm starting with.....




And here's the powder coat gun I picked up...



Wish me luck!

good luck. Got the same gun, got a stove to bake it in and never got mine outta the box yet .

Found a local powdercoater that does tons of bike stuff so little stuff like rc parts get done for little to nothing when he gets a chance so its more laziness on my part

I think treehugger did up an ultima before he flaked out and think it looked pretty good IIRC. Should be a cool project...keep us updated.

Todd

Make that 3...I have the same one but I haven't used it also.

I've watched quite a few videos about powder coating on youtube and it doesn't look all that difficult. It seems the prep work takes the most time, with the actual powder coating taking just a few minutes. I'm going to use a toaster oven. I'm pretty stoked to try it!

You'll love having your own powder gun!

Beware of using a toaster oven. Since the parts are so close to the heating elements, the powder could burn. I've had this happen in a kitchen oven when doing larger parts that were close to the elements. Powder is flammable so be careful when putting the parts in. And pay special attention when using clear powder because it turns yellowish if it burns.

The cheap Harbor Freight powder works good, but the colors seem dull and not as bright as others. And the Eastwood powder is usually overpriced for all that you get. We have hundreds of pounds of bulk common-colored powder here if you want to experiment.

Make sure to preheat items especially aluminum and used items. I tested some on a used water neck for an engine and had some odd results without preheating to drive out oils and other substances.

jwscab wrote:Make sure to preheat items especially aluminum and used items. I tested some on a used water neck for an engine and had some odd results without preheating to drive out oils and other substances.

Forgot about that too. We've found that certain brands and colors of powder react to coolant...I think chrome and maybe gun metal got spotty when hit with hot coolant. Yes, always pre-bake at 400-450 degrees for 10-15 minutes. Good prep work is the key to getting good results.

Also, another tip I can think of is to NOT pre-heat the oven then put the parts in because it almost heat-shocks them if that makes any sense. I always start with a cold oven, put in the parts, then let the oven get up to temp and keep an eye out for the powder to flow-out (turn liquid), then bake for the recommended amount of time.

Thanks for the tips on powder coating!

I finally got some time and started stripping the Ultima down. Its not in bad shape, just reeeeeally dirty. Does anyone make a screw kit for this? The only thing I could find is from RC Screwz, but its labeled for the Ultima vintage series and has a picture of a Pro next to it. I'd like to find an exact screw kit if I can.

Powder coating is a piece a cake and I used my regular gas oven, myth about only using electric. Anyways prep is the most important if using solid colors not so much I've also powder over anodized came out good. I also re-powder over the 1st coat to get the darker colors came out fine. Powder coating is very wasteful they say not to reuse fallen powder But I made a box lined with plastic trash bags to recapture the wasted powder and was able to powder a lot more items. I also used romex copper wires to make a good contact to the hanging parts, you can over powder and once it transition to liquid form it can produce runs. I also preheat the parts not to 400 degree around 300 before shooting.

You guys just need to try it out and soon you'll be a powdering coating everything. I got some motorcycle parts I want to powder.

Another important tip that wasn't mentioned: MAKE SURE that you put sacrificial screws in any threaded hole before you powder-coat or you'll be re-tapping every one of those holes.

I need some advice. What is the best way to clean this chassis? It doesn't look like I've touched it, but I've used degreaser, dawn, acetone and it just will not come clean! What do you guys suggest?


The body is a little rough with a few cracks, but since I bought my first airbrush, I decided to strip the body. Anything will look better than the silver spraypaint on the outside, and the gold paintjob that was underneath...

It all depends on the type of powder paint your planning to use if it solid or candy colors? solid colors I would just clean them real good maybe some light sanding with wet/dry 400 grit and spray over the anodizing, solid will cover all. Candy colors will show all defects must be perfect condition or get it to a polish state before shooting.

I need some advice. What is the best way to clean this chassis? It doesn't look like I've touched it, but I've used degreaser, dawn, acetone and it just will not come clean! What do you guys suggest?



Easy-Off (in the yellow can) will do a great job...just don't keep it on too long.

It washes anodizing off like it's water colored paint.

It worked great on a few of my projects!

The chassis isn't anodized, so no problems there, its just dirty. I'll try sanding it a bit tomorrow.

if you have access to a media blaster it would make for an easy cleanup before powdercoating . I use glass bead in mine and it makes for a nice clean surface that will take powder very well.

Todd