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I've been racing my brothers on our home built track with my SC10 2wd truck. The truck spins out a lot on corners when under throttle and I am trying to figure out some way to correct this. I've relocated the battery all the way to the back of the chassis. I added some larger spacers under the rear arm mounts. Currently running green springs in the rear and silvers up front with 30 weight oil. The motor is a brushless 10 turn Novak. I've loosened the slipper a bit, but it did not seem to help much. Don't want to loosen it much more. I've got Proline Bowties on it right now and the track is mostly packed clay. Any thoughts on what I could do to correct this?

Could be a bunch of things really, wrong tires, air in shocks, shock angle, binding in suspension, over aggressive corner entry and so on. One of the biggest things I noticed in the SC10 was over-rotation in the rear, and most corrected it with less aggressive front tires (like using the stock tires to combat the issue) lengthening the rear camberlinks we much as possible, and addition of rear weight and or central weight (3-4 oz rear & 1-3 center) basically I'm pretty sure that the tires pivot from center too fast during left/right transitions making it very hard to find a balance in the rear. I tried camber gain by lowering the inside links by a bunch (like 4mm) but it just increased chassis roll speed causing new issues.

Fast servo, solid servo saver like avid or AE, soft rear tires and inserts and added weight are about it to help-

Front shocks on the inner arm hole can make the truck hook.

Make sure they are on the outer arm hole and middle to outer tower hole. A harder front spring can also help - Make sure the front shocks aren't dead or pogo sticks first.

Basically try to take away front end grip.

Take those spacers out from under the arm mount, that much anti squat will make the rear act stiff and not transfer weight to the rear. You want to run the 2 degree spacer. Move the battery forward a little, like 2 or 3 pads in front of the battery. Too much weight too far back can cause it to hook. I always ran red or blue springs in front, 35 wt in front and 30wt rear. 1/2 oz on the front end and 1 1/2-3 oz mounted behind the battery, right in front of the arm mount. 2wd sct's are always a little loose, it's a balancing act. These things and what others have suggested are just what the sc10 needs to get it hooked up.

RC10th wrote:Front shocks on the inner arm hole can make the truck hook.

Make sure they are on the outer arm hole and middle to outer tower hole. A harder front spring can also help - Make sure the front shocks aren't dead or pogo sticks first.

Basically try to take away front end grip.

Will this be the same for the SC10.2 with the bent B arms?

Thanks for the tips as well guys! My SC10.2 is a little back end loose as well! I hate when my rear end is loose!

slotcarrod wrote:

RC10th wrote:Front shocks on the inner arm hole can make the truck hook.

Make sure they are on the outer arm hole and middle to outer tower hole. A harder front spring can also help - Make sure the front shocks aren't dead or pogo sticks first.

Basically try to take away front end grip.

Will this be the same for the SC10.2 with the bent B arms?

Thanks for the tips as well guys! My SC10.2 is a little back end loose as well! I hate when my rear end is loose!

The new arms and tower supposedly give more steering on exit. Most guys around here went back to the older arms and front tower.

You could also dial back the EPA on your radio too to help with too much steering. I had the same issue with my Blitz and it help a ton.

I just ordered B narrow front Jconcepts wheels and narrow B front tires. I bet this will balance the SC10.2! Not sure if this is legal though?