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Hey, finished my mid/late Edinger posted in my gallery but thought I'd show more pics here in case anyone had any questions or wanted to comment. Thanks for looking. BTW the only thing that is not original with this build, or any of my builds, are the SS ball studs, I do have the originals in the kit box, I always swap them out for my builds, just so rust won't stain my parts.

Some shots are doubles, was playing with the light. It is a darker colour chassis. light top stamped "A". A very BIG thanks to Chad on that gear cover

That looks great Marlo! I think a lot of people put too much emphasis into a super clean chassis and ultra bright parts. It's great to see the original unmolested colors and imperfect chassis finish because that's exactly how they came out of the box. Looks awesome!

Hey, where's the sway bar your not done yet sir!

Thanks for the compliment, When I got these from Reg, ( thanks BTW) I was a little stand off'ish, but the more I looked at the chassis, The more I wanted it. It is an unused chassis, but it is the way some came, and natural white, zero hydro for this build. I did play with the idea with a sway bar, but its in the original pack, along with ant. and MSC, I still may add one, I have a box full of them

Soldering them was always a pita, even now I'm great with an iron and they make me look bad!

gomachv wrote:That looks great Marlo! I think a lot of people put too much emphasis into a super clean chassis and ultra bright parts. It's great to see the original unmolested colors and imperfect chassis finish because that's exactly how they came out of the box. Looks awesome!

x2

I don't whiten any of the nylon parts on my builds, and I love it when the anodized parts are flawed and/or don't match each other. This car looks awesome!

Looks good.

Now flip those front shock rod ends around.

what do you use for the stainless steel tie rod balls? part number or vendor?

build looks super as a 'real' original build, as mentioned!

scr8p wrote:Looks good.

Now flip those front shock rod ends around.

Yah, I did have a hard time on that, I searched around, looked at some other builds, the manual does show it to be the way you mentioned, I'll get on that , another thing that also got me was the top rear shock bushing, I placed them as I would on later cars, but in the manual its backwards, any thoughts

The reason for the upper rear being opposite of the newer cars is because you can't move the arm mount forward. The shock cap would bind up if you flip it around.

I usually ad a spacer down at the arm on older cars so the shock is straight and moves freely.

jwscab wrote:what do you use for the stainless steel tie rod balls? part number or vendor?

build looks super as a 'real' original build, as mentioned!

Thank you very much for the compliment. For the ball studs, I use AE #6273 (long), comes in kits of two studs, and #6271 ball stud set, 12 short in that set, the threads on some do not go all the way up the stud, I pick the best one's, and run a 4-40 tap in all parts, and when room permits, I give the hole a light counter sink to clear any unthreaded part of the stud.

marlo wrote:another thing that also got me was the top rear shock bushing, I placed them as I would on later cars, but in the manual its backwards, any thoughts

I would suggest building it like the instructions show for that particular model. Associated changed the order and orientation of the nuts, washers, and bushings quite a few times over the lifespan of the RC10. Some of the early build instructions don't make a lot of sense from a logical point of view, but it's neat to see the cars as they would have been put together at that time.

marlo wrote:I give the hole a light counter sink to clear any unthreaded part of the stud.

I learned that bitd, that's why all the servo savers are cracked now. If you don't chamfer the hole it splits over time.

gomachv wrote:

marlo wrote:I give the hole a light counter sink to clear any unthreaded part of the stud.

I learned that bitd, that's why all the servo savers are cracked now. If you don't chamfer the hole it splits over time.

I also do not tighten the studs right down

Thanks Marlo, good to know! I didn't even realize those were stainless. And yes, it's correct to account for the unfinished threaded portion with either a washer, spacer or countersink the hole to prevent undue stress.