RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi all,
New to RC and am trying to finish a car my son started to build many years ago. It is a 1992 Gold Pan RC10. He assembled a lot of the car when he was around 14 years old and I can only hope what he did was correct. I am wondering about the clutch engagement...If I turn the motor and gear assembly shouldn't the wheels rotate? Or if I roll the car shouldn't the transmission turn the motor? I know there is a clutch assembly and I took it apart and as far as I can tell from the manual everything is put together correctly but when I set the car back on it's wheels the clutch disk hangs down out of place. Shouldn't there be enough pressure from the spring assembly to keep everything in it's place? I have ordered the radio, receiver and battery pack so I can finish the car but until I get them installed I can't really test much of anything. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack

pics would be fine, for us to better see the picture, but yes, if you turn the gears/spur the wheels should turn and Roll the car, and if wheels are turn, then the spur/motor pinion then motor should spin/turn. is this a 6 gear or a stealth Transmission?

If the clutch disc hangs down its definitely not assembled right, or not tightened properly. Tighten all the way, then back off a 1/4 turn.

Sounds like your going to run it. It has been sitting since '92, I would rebuild it. I'm sure it needs cleaned and lubed.

This is the stealth transmission. The car has never ran. I am cleaning and checking everything as I go but didn't want to tear the trans apart if I didn't have to.

as per Scr8p, just to tighten the nut....but I believe a tranny rebuild would be needed if it hasn't been run for 21 years..the diff balls"might flatted spot.

didn't want to tear the trans apart if I didn't have to.

It'd be a good idea. When I get a used kit, I tear them down as far as needed for thorough cleaning and inspection, and that includes disassembly of the transmission. If your boy didn't properly tighten the diff screw or put grease on the washers/balls/gears, you'll have a spooled rear end in short order.

The stealth is really easy to tear down. Just don't lose any of the diff balls, or the even smaller balls that preload the diff (they live inside one of the outdrive cups, beneath a washer)

O.K., I took your advice and tore down the differential and am very glad I did. I found a bushing that was in the wrong spot. It had a larger center hole and was intended for the outer clutch shaft. I swapped it with the one already installed (with a smaller center hole) and now the clutch engages as it should. Yay! I had to get into the area with all of those tiny dif balls to find the bushing and noticed two of the balls were missing. I have ordered a new set now and will install them when they arrive. I now need to know what kind of lube to use and where to apply it? I assume that all shaft areas that contact the bushings need some kind of lube, is it the white or the black grease in the kit? Also do I need to lube the ball cups, Swing arm pivot pins and steering linkage? Any advice would be greatly appreciated and thanks for all the fantastic help/advice/ I have already received. You guys are the best...

Black for the small ball diff/washer,white for the gear diff ball(big ring diff),no need to lube the ball cups/link etc,as it will only introduce dirt.even the gears inside the tranny(stealth) does not nee any lubrication.

If this is a bushing kit I would take this time to buy a bearing set. They are very cheap now- about $17 for the 10t shipped on eBay. If its a bushing champ car it will have the 1/4 x 3/8 flanged rear wheel bearings, which is this kit (for example)

eBay link
http://bit.ly/15VGbgQ

If your gonna run the car put a bearing kit in it,Bushing wear out and wear the metal parts down too,and wear the gears down as well.All getn hard to find now.DON