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Mine only has 1 and the wheel hits the chassis and will not turn...I have ordered more shims from Associated...Those things are mighty thin and the manual shows 2 being used...It seems like you would have to use something like 3 or 4 of those to get the wheel away from the chassis so it does not hit...How many are you all using to keep the wheel spinning without rubbing ????

What wheels are you using? Modern wheels come with different amounts of offset, depending on who made the wheels.

The shims are only there to remove play between the hub and bearing, the hub locks in place by screwing onto the axle which makes it difficult to shim the L3 axle. Using normal shims between the bearing and hub means that the hub can't be screwed fully on to the axle, so acceleration would screw the hub onto the axle, loading up and binding the bearings. If you want to space out the hub you have to use shims that just slip over the screw thread, but are only 1/4" outside diameter so the hub can fit over them. You them need the normal axle shims to adjust the end float in the axle as well.

Or alternatively throwing away the L3 screw on hub and fitting a clamp on hub will allow you to adjust the axle width. Guess why Associated went back to a clamp on hub with the L4 diff.

Looks like I will be ordering the new L4 hub...Funny thing is when I went on AE site and pulled up the manual it showed 12L4 using between 3 to 4 of those shims...If you pulled up the instruction manual it showed 3 and the explode view showed 4 lol...So it still looks like you will have to use a lot of them...I just bought it yesterday with no box or manuals so I am just learning what is stock and what is not...They look like AE wheels that would have come with it...You can see buy the pictures where it is hitting the chassis...

So after looking they look a lot like Jaco Prisms...If the offset is the problem then what is everyone running ???? I went on AE and put in the part number from there manual and only the rears come up and they are Jaco...They don't even have the fronts anymore....And the wheels are white...I just ordered some stuff from AE including the clamping rear hub but I would like to use the original stuff if possible...Any input on tire and wheel choices that will still allow me to use that hub would be greatly appreciated...

The originals had less offset, so if you've bought the old Associated #3627 wheels they will be fine as they are made for the L3. I know Xceeds have the least offset of modern wheels, Jacos are the worst. AMC over here sell wheel spacersto go between the hub and wheel to move the wheels out on higher offset wheels.

Modern cars use plenty of shims on the axle to get it to maximum width, to compensate for the range of wheels available. The old days meant a standard wheel design that everyone used so all wheels were interchangeable. Today, manufacturers use different amounts of offset as it affects how the wheel flexes, so cars running different makes with the same tyre compound will handle differently. Whatever way you use to fit modern wheels, you don't want to fit all the shims on one side. Find the centre line of the chassis and make sure the wheels are spaced out evenly on both sides to make sure it will handle evenly.

have you marked centerline and made sure the rear tires match from side to side .. my rc10l use to have a thin alum spacer about 1/4" wide .. its was for oval and not road corse .. dont know if that helps

terry.sc wrote:The originals had less offset, so if you've bought the old Associated #3627 wheels they will be fine as they are made for the L3. I know Xceeds have the least offset of modern wheels, Jacos are the worst. AMC over here sell wheel spacersto go between the hub and wheel to move the wheels out on higher offset wheels.

Modern cars use plenty of shims on the axle to get it to maximum width, to compensate for the range of wheels available. The old days meant a standard wheel design that everyone used so all wheels were interchangeable. Today, manufacturers use different amounts of offset as it affects how the wheel flexes, so cars running different makes with the same tyre compound will handle differently. Whatever way you use to fit modern wheels, you don't want to fit all the shims on one side. Find the centre line of the chassis and make sure the wheels are spaced out evenly on both sides to make sure it will handle evenly.

I checked that part number and they are available...I will order some tomorrow...I tried calling back and kept getting a voice mail lol...Thank you for the link to get those spacers also...

integra22t wrote:have you marked centerline and made sure the rear tires match from side to side .. my rc10l use to have a thin alum spacer about 1/4" wide .. its was for oval and not road corse .. dont know if that helps

It is the wheels...They are to wide and wrong offset...After finally getting a picture that I could zoom in on the stock ones are clearly smaller then the ones that came with it...I printed the instruction manual and took everything back apart and put it back together just to make sure it wasn't me...The same thing...The only side you can shim would be the left with the spin on hub and when you hit the throttle it will tighten up and bind the bearing up...After you put the diff side together there is no room for spacers on that side...Now I could change the rear and put in the 12l4 setup but I don't want to do that just yet...What sucks is the wheels on Associated site are white and I can't see what style of rim they are so when I get them I will have to find matching fronts...