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I received a couple boxes of RCs from a friend and I am starting to go through everything. I want to get a race ready one (which happens to be a Graphite), a gold tub to tool around with, and one for my 8 year old to do the same.

There's also an RC10T that I'll resurrect.

I started tearing them down starting with the Graphite. Once I get that one close to being done I'll start the others and add them to the thread.

Here is what it started out as.



Not bad. Dirty, dusty, some "dog hair" bushings, and some random tape residue.

The tires are garbage, the wheels look nice once I clean them. ESC has seen better days.

Cleaned the chassis. The battery box is on with something fierce. Instead of trashing anything, it'll stay put.



I took all the hardware out. Lots of random screws, nuts, and such.



They'll be replaced by this



I'm going to lightly sand these and polish them up



I did the peroxide trick on my parts. They came out ok, not as good as I'd liked but still better than they were.



These are the shocks that were on it when I got it. Not sure what they are but I kind of like them. I'll tear them apart and maybe polish the shafts.



I also had this that was extra. On top of all these there's another 2 rigs with sets on them. I pulled these apart and they were nasty with sludge, dirt, grime, etc.

I'm going to clean them up and toying with maybe throwing them in the jewelry agitator with just some warm water and dish soap. Any objections or suggestions?



I have all kinds of goodies coming in from Tower tomorrow hopefully. Shock rebuild kit, oils, grease, a new lid. I'm hoping to sit down and get to the fun stuff this weekend.

One trick I've used on white parts is to use Fast Orange hand cleaner soap and my wife's toothbrush (kidding). To clean parts with holes, I use q-tips along with the Fast Orange. It is gritty and does a good job of getting out ground in dirt/oil. You've got a solid foundation, it should be a solid ride when finished.

- Limestang

The plastic shocks are kyosho black sport shocks.

yep i have them on my rc10 right now

gomachv wrote:The plastic shocks are kyosho black sport shocks.

Awesome thanks for that.

Any chance they came off a Slingshot?

Yes, kind of

The slingshot came with short gold shocks all the way around, however later they made a sport version called the Lumina stock car. It had a non countersunk chassis, aluminum shock towers, too out the one way front diff and bearings, gave it a rotary speed control, and swapped for black shocks.

Ah ok.

In the box was a Slingshot, so I was just wondering. There was a Blackfoot also which I think may have inherited the gold shocks from the Slingshot.

limestang wrote:One trick I've used on white parts is to use Fast Orange hand cleaner soap and my wife's toothbrush (kidding). To clean parts with holes, I use q-tips along with the Fast Orange. It is gritty and does a good job of getting out ground in dirt/oil. You've got a solid foundation, it should be a solid ride when finished.

- Limestang

Quips are a good idea, not sure why I diet think of that myself. I went out and found mini pipe brushes, which work awesme, but a bit over the top.

Looks like you have lot of work ahead of you. It will all be worth it though.

All my goodies are in to start getting this together.

Rebuild the shocks, get the front ready to start bolting it on and......this



Screws don't sit flush to the chassis.....crap.

They're long enough top side:



I emailed Tonys to see what can be done. They sit the same way on the gold tub. Don't sit well with me unfortunately.

The screws that associated and losi use are 100 degree aircraft. Most steel screws (besides some losi) are 82 degree. The steel 4-40 screws are all 82 degree so they should be fine.

You can re countersink the chassis with an 82 degree but I would rather use the right screws.

That sucks...Pull those screws and send them back...Go to Tower hobbies website and get the screws from there...They may not be as cool but at least they will fit properly...

Yeah definitely not the end of the world but looks shoddy I think.

If they weren't $25 a set I wouldn't mind just buying the 16 or so I would need.

Are the washers steel too? If so, should be "Tony Screws."

FYI every gold AE screw I purchased fit better than those shown in the pic. Some gold screws fit the countersink better than others as suppliers changed over the years.

You shouldn't have to spend $25 to replace only those screws.

I didn't. I bought them to replace every screw, bolt, nut, and washer.

Screws were stripped, rusted, mismatched, etc.