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Ok, I figured just to make a post here in the RC10 tech since I'm not building the other brands. lol. I figured as I run into a problem I'll post here as I plan on picking y'all's brains as much as possible. Ok, so for starters. On a recent pick up, I have a couple of parts I'm not sure on. I did not use them bitd but I'm sure y'all have the answer.

Steering Question, screws and Graphite chassis questions answered. Awesome.

A&L bellcranks.

Looks like the graphite was cut for a truck bulkhead. Build a WOIN out of it?

a&l bellcranks

the chassis is cut and drilled to use a 10t bulkhead and longer arms. rpm worlds, dynotech "klein" replacement arms. not a big deal.

trinity had purple screws

No, I was planning on just cleaning it up and doing a period correct EDM car. I also got a Team and Worlds car that are nice. The worlds has min scratches and the Team was beautiful until someone did the swiss cheese job to it. So the team car will more than likely be a runner.

Now that you mention it. I did get some truck parts and tires with the lot

It looks like they might have botched drilling the truck bulkhead holes and put them off center.

I'll just have to do what I can while on the lookout for a replacement chassis. Still haven't decided on what trans to put in that as it came with none. However there is a ziplock full of Stealths, one complete RPM and I found another RPM case with topshaft. If I can find the correct gears, I was thinking RPM trans in both graphites so I can see if I can't upset some people in a stock class versus the Dirtoval purpose cars (I think with my driving style I might have to rely on staying smooth to outrun the more novice guys). I've read on here that they are better matched for the brushless. For bling, I do have some aluminum stealth trans.

RPM gear question answered, thank you!

Yeah only the top shafts are different in the RPM trans. A 23T top gear for the 1.96 ratio trans and a 17T for the 2.65 ratio.

Rest of the gears are from the stealth.

I am really starting to like the graphite cars better then the aluminum tubs...Is it gonna be a shelfer or runner ????

Well bummer news, I just opened the bag with the RPM case. The top shaft in there is not an RPM topshaft. So putting the RPM in the late graphite, will put a regular stealth in the other graphite and possibly a aluminum in the Team car. I don't know. Gonna start on the late graphite now.

Ok, so I saw on some of the WOIN builds, I have the RC10 nose and stuff...maybe this should be a future project. Getting really tired of this kid I call a friend dogging me for liking the old vintage stuff. Think he needs a butt whooping. I have one question for the day though, RC10T RPM bulkhead. Any advantages to using this or a RC10T bulkhead over a RC10? Cause if I can get this cleaned up, would look good with white parts.

Here is the team tub I have....sadly the bottom is really sweet, hardly a scratch. But it's Swiss cheesed!!! Anyone have any opinions on the RPM rear bulkhead? Has a couple of holes jacked up but is this a far superior piece than the AE bulkhead?

honestly I've never broken an AE rear bulkhead. I've also paid way too much for the rpm stuff but do like them. As for superiority I've read there are some advantages of the rpm over AE but will let others with more info answer that...

I'd build that team chassis up...a few holes never seem to hurt a runner. Dirt oval isn't as hard on the chassis as say offroad jumping would be. If you wanna offroad it you could A&L chassis stiffener it. Nice set of projects you got going.

Todd

This will be used for offroad, might be able to mill the sides down and use an undertray for the bottom holes.

Found this info. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=11928&hilit=arm+length+klein
Front:
Arms: 2" pin-to-pin (2.025" with my calipers, close as I can get)
Caster block width: 0.490"
Bulkhead width: 0.820"
Inner hinge pin spread: 2.925"

Rear:
Arms: 2.235"
Hub carrier width: 0.600"
Mount width: 1.380"
Inner hinge pin spread: 2.50" (approximately at the center of the mounts; toe-in makes them wider at the rear and narrower at the front)

dynotech rear arm specs.

center of inner pin to center of outer pin = aprox 64.2mm
over all length = 72mm

outer hinge area
inner = 14.9mm
outer = 28.2mm

inner hinge area
inner = 34.8mm
outer = 50.8mm

dynotech front arm specs.

center of inner pin to center of outer pin = aprox 60.3mm
over all length = 68.5mm

outer hinge area
inner = 12.5mm
outer = 25.5mm

inner hinge area
inner = 25.0mm
outer = 39.5mm

Well looks like the arms I have are not long enough. Have a bunch that are 2 1/8" (55mm) center to center, one that is 2 9/16"(65mm). Not even going to bother looking at the rears cause I'm pretty sure those will all be too short.