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Do you build it by the manual, or the right way?



To make it an authentic box car it should be by the book, right?

So if it is by the book then you have to use the oil lite bushings too.

Yup! My 6010 has brand new bushings, this one will too

I'm having a very hard time not fixing the problems. I want to put 6466 spacers in the rears and drill the front tower, just for starters.

The spacers I could see but drilling the tower, not for me...

i shoulda actually read some threads on here before i built mine. after reading i cant help but need to get back in it and tune it, even tho i know im not going to run it much let alone ever take it to a track.

so... im currently tearing mine down to properly space the rear shocks and will also probably yank the front tower and drill it. i also assumed the black idlers were better so i originally had those in, just got done swapping those out for the new ones. i put bearings on the outdrives to replace the felt seals while i was at it.

i did also clean up some old white worlds steering bellcranks and used modern lunsford rurnbuckles with white rpm ends.

badhoopty wrote:i shoulda actually read some threads on here before i built mine. after reading i cant help but need to get back in it and tune it, even tho i know im not going to run it much let alone ever take it to a track.

so... im currently tearing mine down to properly space the rear shocks and will also probably yank the front tower and drill it. i also assumed the black idlers were better so i originally had those in, just got done swapping those out for the new ones. i put bearings on the outdrives to replace the felt seals while i was at it.

i did also clean up some old white worlds steering bellcranks and used modern lunsford rurnbuckles with white rpm ends.

I think what you plan on doing is just the ticket...Steering, bearings, and shock spacers so far for changes from the re-re kit instructions.

Still not sure about drilling the front tower. What is the advantages for this?

the single hole in the front tower is a bit too high for .56 shocks. that's why they all look down in the weeds.

scr8p wrote:the single hole in the front tower is a bit too high for .56 shocks. that's why they all look down in the weeds.

and just to add to this..... though i'm not certain since i haven't built mine yet. but, there is also the risk of the suspension binding (mainly the ball cups on the ball studs) before the shock fully compresses too, because then suspension is traveling further than it probably should.

just thinking out loud there....... don't know for sure. but it's something i would look at.

So far I'm going by the book. Front tower is disappointing but visually I don't want to change their ideas. I will probably put spacers in the rear just cause you don't see em and they will keep it from looking stupid.

So far the fit is way better than original except the steering blocks are a tight fit in the caster blocks. Turns out the caster blocks are the problem. I haven't had to ream holes in anything yet and it's all smooth. I got the ugly green screws for the nose at least, haven't looked ahead yet to see if they are all ugly or mixed.

Pic of the caster block before some filing

I was actually thinking of running it a little. That's the reason I was going with the Stealth, A&L steering and bearings. I actually stole the bearings out of my original as I didn't have any for the Classic. I had figured I could replace this chassis later when AE makes replacement chassis'.

gomachv wrote:So far I'm going by the book. Front tower is disappointing but visually I don't want to change their ideas. I will probably put spacers in the rear just cause you don't see em and they will keep it from looking stupid.

So far the fit is way better than original except the steering blocks are a tight fit in the caster blocks. Turns out the caster blocks are the problem. I haven't had to ream holes in anything yet and it's all smooth. I got the ugly green screws for the nose at least, haven't looked ahead yet to see if they are all ugly or mixed.

Pic of the caster block before some filing

When I looked at mine I thought maybe they were handled before they cooled out of the molding machine and got warped.

My front arms hit the tower before the shock reaches full travel. .71 shafts fix this, without changing the aesthetic of the tower. An RPM spring cup keeps the spring off the arm, and corrects for the longer shaft. You may lose 1/8 " up travel with this set up, but gain overall travel by using the full stroke of the .56 shock.

you don't use .71 shafts in .56 bodies. unless of course you hate your pistons.

gomachv wrote:Do you build it by the manual, or the right way?



To make it an authentic box car it should be by the book, right?

I was thinking about this, If you want to be correct, as far as box art build goes, I think it should be built by the manual, if your going to run it, build it right.

It's just so goofy by the manual, I ended up spacing the rear shocks but left the front. Here is the ride height difference to a stock 6010


The rear isn't bad


All in all I think they did a great job- just a couple supplements from perfect
Btw, the joints do not glow in the dark but they are pretty awesome! Tight and smooth...just like I like em