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If you have parts you would like to see made for any model or manufacturer this is the place to ask.
Things like suspension arms are out of the question, the parts are too weak and flexible if made to the same design using ABS plastic. If the part was just for the shelf it would be fine, but I am designing stuff for people to run on the track. The thin area around the hinge pin holes are the weak spots.

What make and model of printer are you using?

Not to be a jerk, but I am going to keep that a trade secret. Sorry!

I know you do the antenna holders... but what about just the caps for them? It seems as that's all I loose!

...but then again I guess that's because the rest is actually bolted on

Chris

Well I could do caps no problem, they just wouldn't match the holder part in color or finish.

Clearly anything structural is a no go, which eliminates pretty much everything in rc aside from stuff like: driving figure, lights, err... struggling to think of anything.

kink wrote:Clearly anything structural is a no go, which eliminates pretty much everything in rc aside from stuff like: driving figure, lights, err... struggling to think of anything.

Not true at all, I already have a lot of things done, it just depends on how you want it to look and how strong you want it. http://sabulatech.com/SabulaTech/Team_Losi.html If you can tolerate things not looking exactly the same as original than a lot of things are available. My redesigned Losi bell cranks are a perfect example as well us the upcoming side bulkheads. I am designing for the people who want to run the things and not worry about breaking an expensive part that is unobtainable. If they 3D part happens to break, no big deal. Easy to get another. I still try to make the new parts to be roughly equal strength. But at the same time I don't want to make parts like suspension arms that don't give you much options to make them stronger. The clearances around hinge pins don't really allow me to add more material to make it stronger.

how about the LXT steering enhancement kit in white for all the rpm restoration guys out there?

Hmmm not familiar with an LXT steering enhancement kit. I know a little about RC10T one if that is what you are referring to.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=8512

That is an area of parts I think might hold some promise for possible redesign of a part. It is all a question of the redesign of the part and the places you can add material to beef up the strength. I will have to look closer at that type of part when I need to start some new ideas. But of course I would need one side of the kit for reference. After designing one side it is trivial to mirror for the other side.

mytimac wrote:Not to be a jerk, but I am going to keep that a trade secret. Sorry!

Not looking to undercut, just curious what the material specs and print resolution will be.

yes, those are the parts. effectively I think they are the stock LXT parts, I know Scr8p did a tech thread where he cut a set down to have the same geometry as the rpm parts, the steering arm is a little longer on the lxt parts. I definitely don't have the rpm parts, but I might have the lxt parts.

jwscab wrote:yes, those are the parts. effectively I think they are the stock LXT parts, I know Scr8p did a tech thread where he cut a set down to have the same geometry as the rpm parts, the steering arm is a little longer on the lxt parts. I definitely don't have the rpm parts, but I might have the lxt parts.

here it is. i still haven't altered the other knuckle yet.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=25908

I have the LXT knuckles and castor blocks for sure, probably 20 of them...
But the length on the arm for the knuckle would be hard to determine without an RPM one for reference.

GreenHell wrote:

mytimac wrote:Not to be a jerk, but I am going to keep that a trade secret. Sorry!

Not looking to undercut, just curios what the material specs and print resolution will be.

No problem, right now just doing ABS at .15mm. I may go thinner latter but don't really see the need right now. To be honest .2 would probably be fine for most things. I have nylon that I just haven't gotten around to testing yet, so many other things going on. I thought I would have been testing with it months ago.

mytimac wrote:But the length on the arm for the knuckle would be hard to determine without an RPM one for reference.

just use a standard inline rc10 buggy arm. geometery wise, kingpin to ball stud hole is the same between the rc10 an rpm pieces.

i could get you more reference pics if it's something you want to consider.