RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi guys new to the site hi. I have just purchased a rc10 t after always wanting one
So the one I have looks In good condition the plastics are yellow I plan to whiten these ( any reccomendations are welcome ) and to powder coat the tub .
Also I plan to repaint the shell In team colours ( any reccomendations on how the remove old paint would be great
Also I want the truck to be very quick any reccomendations on brushless setup would be great thanks guys Tim

Hi and welcome

If you do a quick search on the fourm, you will find enough information to write a book on paint removal and getting parts white!

Have fun!

here you go-
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=14978

it's a lot of pages, but the short version is: white parts in a glass jar will with peroxide and put in the sun (or under a UV bulb) on a sheet of aluminum foil to reflect the light. After a couple days and occasional shaking to get the bubbles off, the parts are good to go! Just make sure they are only nylon parts! It'll jack up other types of plastic.

Those guys got ya covered on the resto stuff, so I'll attack this end:

any reccomendations on brushless setup would be great thanks guys

Depends on budget.

Bottom dollar, you cannot beat the hobbywing EZrun 60A ESC for $40 shipped, and combine with a Hobbywing or equivalent $30-$40 motor.

For about $110, the Castle Sidewinder is a really good value. However, they do not run at low speeds (not just rough or "coggy"; flat out won't go under 5 or 6 MPH)

Next up you're moving in to the race grade stuff from LRP, Novak, Tekin, etc.

So, tell us what your goals & budget are, and we can better help you.

Your options are:

-Fast
-Cheap
-Race legal

Pick any two.

Hi guys thanks for the warm welcome I suppose I just want a mix of fast and cheap lol
I have the roller and am going to restore it I am concerned that a to fast a motor will wreck the transmission
As I have no idea what the truck will handle . Thanks Tim

I suppose I just want a mix of fast and cheap

Hob on eBay or Hobbyking

Hobbywing 60A ESC, $40 shipped
Hobbywing, Turnigy or Leopard 540 size sensorless motor, 10-12T (3,500-4,000 KV), $35-$50 shipped
Turnigy 3S 6000 mAh 25-50c LiPo, ~$50 shipped

You'll be looking right about 50 MPH with stock gearing. If you want to go any faster, you'll need a beefier ESC.

I have the roller and am going to restore it I am concerned that a to fast a motor will wreck the transmission

Stealths are pretty tough, and the internals are still available. Can't be upgraded to metal parts like a GT trans, but shouldn't be an issue. I've been hammering my gold pan buggy with a 3,300 KV on 3S geared 24/81 and have had no problems to date. So long as you stick to a 540 can and don't gear it too tall, install oversize tires or add too much weight, your stock trans should hang in there for a long time.

I have only blown the plastic gears out in 2 steaths, both GT transmissions, both running way oversize tires with tall gearing , both overweight, and both using grossly overpowered mills (one a .32 size nitro engine, the other a 3,500 KV 4 pole 550 motor)

As I have no idea what the truck will handle .

It will handle like a vintage stadium truck

If I were you, I'd just rebuild the shocks and make sure the suspension is tight, then see how it does before changing anything out.

Oh great very helpful so the shocks have a big impact on how the truck behaves?
I would never have known that is there anything to look out for eg wear on certain parts?
I've read about bearing sets to replace all bearings is that with doing ? Thanks Tim

Oh great very helpful so the shocks have a big impact on how the truck behaves?

Tremendous. Different springs, pistons and oil weights will change the handling characteristics dramatically.

But as I said, just rebuild them with new O-rings and fresh oil to start. I like 30 wt Associated silicon oil for a base set-up. It's about $4/bottle, will last a long time with only one vehicle.

I would never have known that is there anything to look out for eg wear on certain parts?

The diff out drives and axle stubs need to be checked to make sure the dogbones haven't worn a notch into them. Shock pistons can become oblonged from wearing on the inside of the shock body. Likewise, shock bodies can become very worn internally. Otherwise, just check all suspension hinges to make sure nothing is wollered out, allowing undesirable movement. Check all the ball studs, and install nuts on them where ever possible. If you still have the original ball cups (rod ends), I'd highly recommend replacing them with RPM cups. Check all screws if you're not doing a complete rebuild. I'd suggest opening up the transmission and re-greasing the diff (search here for info on stealth trans rebuilding).

I've read about bearing sets to replace all bearings is that with doing ?

If it's a bushing truck, then definitely upgrade to bearings. Otherwise, just see how they spin before replacing. You can get full bearing sets for under $20 on eBay.

Omg you know ur stuff basically I want to make the truck as new .
Could you tell me everything you would replace to new ef the bits you
Mentioned ive read about drive shifts and cups ? Being worn

Hi guys finally received my 10 t but A little diss appointed the bars that hold the
Rear arms on are bent it's just abit grotty and I'm not sure if the tranny is any good is spins ok Anything to look
Out for with these thanks guys

The hinge pins can be straightened, or you can simply replace them. 10T uses the same pins as the GT, which are still in production. In point of fact, a lot of current production GT parts fit the 10T; 'bout the only ones that don't are transmission, transmission brace, rear bulkhead, rear shock tower & rear arm mounts. All the front suspension stuff is common, as are rear arms, hub carriers, camber links, etc.

I'm not sure if the tranny is any good is spins ok

Open it up, wipe everything down, check bearings and service the differential (clean, regrease, adjust). DO NOT apply grease to the gears themselves; this only serves to increase resistance and make them dust magnets. Two of the 3 gears are nylon/delrin, and do not need lubrication. The top shaft gear is steel, but since it mates to a nylon gear, it does not need lube either, and the bearings (assuming it has bearings, not bushings) are sealed.

If the transmission gears are damaged, they are still available brand new on eBay.

Hi there thanks for the info I did what u said however are the wheels
Supposed to spin opposite ways to each other as mine don't they spin the same
Way is this bad is my diff had it?

Hi there thanks for the info I did what u said however are the wheels
Supposed to spin opposite ways to each other as mine don't they spin the same
Way is this bad is my diff had it?

Probably just means the diff is a little too tight. However, sometimes they have to be that tight in applications with more power. The trans in my beast GT, my warthog desert buggey, my Carbon Fiber CE buggy-all of them spin the tires in the same direction, as they will slip if loose enough to act as an open diff.

Hey that's great I'm glad it's not broken I've got it all
In bits now cleaning the tranny cogs etc what do you
Have to grease the cogs / bearings with etc

what do you have to grease the cogs / bearings with etc

Nothing. As I said above, the bearings are sealed (non-greasable), and you do not want grease on the gears. ONLY in the diff. For that, you can either buy grease from AE, or just use a good synthetic moly grease.