RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

First off, i've been lurking for a long time. I posted a while back but i've but the rc10s (and 12!) on the back burner. Well now its winter and i find myself tinkering in the garage again. So i had a Rc10gt Converted over to a sc10gt with the forum member robert page's chassis, I was all done minus the body. Never finished it, got a sc8 and a Rc8b turned 1/10th Sc. I found myself really wanting a T4 on the cheap, but i couldnt justify buying another rc10 when i have quite a few in the roster alreadly. So i converted my Rc10Gt into a Rc10Gt-E!

But now i need some help. I tore down, cleaned and relubed the ball diff just because i was there. I upgraded to the T4/b4 topshaft, I didnt like the 48p gears from the sc10 slipper i had so i bought a Sc10 4x4 32p slipper and used that. I test drove it tonight and i kept hearing the slipper squeal with a slight jab of the throttle or anything above 1/2 throttle. I tried fully tightening it, backing it off half a turn and so fourth. But still it would slip. Im pretty sure it is the slipper because i can hold the rear wheels and it squeals just the same.

Is there a break in procedure for the brand new slipper setup? Right now im geared 17/62, Castle mamba max pro, Castle 1410 3800kv, 2s lipo if that helps at all. I beleive im only geared for about 36mph. As you can see just slapped on some bald tires that came with it just for testing, Does that have anything to do with it?
(also if anyone is wondering those are Aka 17mm hexes for the Sc10, Fit like a glove!)

And now the pictures!

Double check the diff too. Make sure its not just the diff slipping.

Im sure you are also doing this to check how to adjust/break-in ball diffs and slipper.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/512013-how-properly-build-break-ball-differential-slipper-clutch.html

Double check the diff too. Make sure its not just the diff slipping.

^^^^^This

That is the most likely issue.

Out of curiosity, why swap out to a B4/T4 top shaft instead of just running the GT slipper with 32P GT gears that are still in production? Doesn't seem to hold any advantage. If anything, it's a step backwards, as changing gears on a GT hub is just two screws, no fussing with slipper pads or having to readjust tension. Plus, with the GT hub, you can run any gear that will physically fit the chassis and engage the pinion. I have used Team Durango mod 1 54T gears, Losi hardened steel mod 1 gears, etc.







It makes sense on the vintage electrics if you damage your existing top shaft, since those are out of production. But all GT trans parts are still available.

Your critter, I'm not judging. Just curious as to the reason.

Thanks for the info. I readjusted the ball diff and it seemed to help. So I'll go back into that again tonight.

The reason I did the t4 top shaft was because I got a brand new sc10 slipper setup for free, figured the dual disc slipper would be a little better than the stock one with the 4pole motor. I'm really only into the setup shaft and spur, which was cheap IMHO.

I hadn't seen all possibilities with the stock stuff either, so I just jumped to that style.

figured the dual disc slipper would be a little better than the stock one with the 4pole motor.

The one with the 48T gear is a 7.2 lb alloy built GT with an ONFA Force .32 engine. The electric one is running a Reedy 3,500 KV 4 pole 550 motor. I have melted the centers out of plastic spur gears, but never had to replace a slipper hub or pad. The GT slippers can pretty much handle anything you can throw at them.

The diffs and idler gears are another matter, though. I had to upgrade to all metal gear transmissions on both of those vehicles.

Your setup will work fine, though. I was merely curious.

Well good to know. I actually spotted some RRP metal transmission gears at my lbs. Might have to go pick those up! Well I plan on doing this conversion for friend too sense he's never driven his rc10gt sense he got it with a bad nitro motor and has had it for at least 3 years. Probably do his a little cheaper and use the stock setup.

I plan on doing this conversion for friend too sense he's never driven his rc10gt sense he got it with a bad nitro motor and has had it for at least 3 years. Probably do his a little cheaper and use the stock setup.

Or just slap an HPI Nitrostar .18 in it for $80 shipped. Those are excellent little motors, run like a raped ape. I have one in my black tub FT GT.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-15107-Nitro-Star-T3-0-Engine-RS4-3-EVO-18SS-w-pullstart-Nitro-RS4-/360767100464?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ff651630

My friend and I started with nitro, Both loved it. But we eventually went all E, wish i still had a nitro at times. I know theres pros and cons to both nitro and eletric, but where we live i dont think the neighbors would take kindly to the noise. Plus i sold all my nitro gear a couple years back. He wants to rebuild the his O.S cz-z .12 eventually that came with the truck, maybe we'll both drop a nitro motor in as i have the same o.s motor.

He seems to be more excited to convert it for $80 then mess with air filters, clutches, afterun oil, tuning for our crummy Washington weather, where he can drive it, etc

Yeah, there are definitely advantages and disadvantages to either. Nitro isn't quite as "turn it on and go", but if you don't have your batteries prepped, nitro is much more at-the-ready. All I need are AA batteries for receiver packs and TX. Glow stick holds a charge forever, fuel is always ready.

I have 13 nitro vehicles; some are finicky, others are simply pull-n-go. That HPI .18 is of the latter category. The occasional 1/8 or 1/4 turn on the HSN for drastic weather or altitude change, but otherwise the dang thing just runs and runs. Same for my blue tub FT runner with LRP Z.18S

(older pic; has since received HG alloy shock collars, FT turnbuckles, RPM ball cups and A-arms)