RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

This was delivered today!

All the pics (you can ignore the comparo to the Nikko tires .. I was just curious!):
http://www.lockeduprc.net/misc/pictures/2013/12-23-13/1/Thumbs1.htm

This baby is going to get revamped, cleaned up and as "original" as I can make it.
With that in mind, I want to figure out as best as I can what year/gen it is. Forgive my lack of education as this will be a "relearning" experience for me....

Here is what I know so far.

The transmission on the back is black, which I believe was an aftermarket MIP upgrade or must have come from a newer model. But there is and original looking tranny included so I am using that to help ID it. The currently mounted rear shocks are not original but the originals were included.

The chassis has an A stamp
I think the chassis is darker than the "light" ones I see pictures of.
Arms look short
I see white gears in the original transmission
Long wing posts
Front axles are behind the spindles
Rear spring cups do not capture the springs
Rear tower has one hole per side
Front spring cups do not have slots
Front shock pistons have hole and not slots
Front spindles do not have the added material
Some of the ball cups have been replaced with some sort of Dubro looking rod ends. The ones that are not dubro are a mix of the early type and the later type. All have threaded rod and not turnbuckles with the hex portion.
The tires on the original looking wheels.... front is 4 rib and front/rear do not say goodyear on them.
I'm not sure how it tell the difference in the milled or sanded shock towers.

The parts catalog that came with it has an Edinger address and says "Cat. #10PL Jan 1986.

The body was aftermarket and so nasty that I will not defile this thread with pictures of it!


So taking all that into consideration and looking in the 25 years of RC10s post I would say I have a late Edinger A stamp with some replacement parts mixed in (like the MIP trans, gear cover, rod ends). But then again the transmission (the loose one) has the drive gear attached with a nut and the holes in the shock pictons ... so maybe an early Cadallic but then the Edinger address, Jan 86 date and some of the parts would not make sense, right?

Anyone have any thoughts?

Also, it has been a long time since I used any SAE tools so all I have are metric hex drivers. Can anyone tell me what all I will need to work on this properly?
3/32 tip?
3/16 & 1/4 sockets?
Anything else?

I'm open to people correcting me as long as they tell me why.


Oh I will also add in that as best as I can tell I had an early model CE growing up ... so that is what sparked this buy/build/resto!

You'll also need a 1/16" hex driver

Rear shocks that are on the car look like the old Duratrax from that era.

I went ahead and put the original style shocks, wheels & tires on.

Much better.



I still need to test the ESC but I'm not sure what to make of the servo because the pins are reversed.

Will have to dig a little bit on that.



All in all I am a bit torn on this car.
I'm not sure if I should just revamp it for what it is or if I should make the few updates to get it closer to what I had (CE).

The purist in me thinks I should revamp it but the kid in me wants to see what I had back then. I'm thinking I can slowly update the parts and provided I hang on to the original stuff I won't feel like I ruined it ... though I'm not sure anyone would light torches if I update this anyway.

you could always cut that g-plug off on the servo and put on your own connectors and plug. that'll give you the option to change the leads around if you need to change it to another receiver. these guys have the kit to do it...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Products-10-Male-Futaba-JR-Hitec-Style-Servo-Connectors-1506-/321263056208?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4accc53550

littleVETTE wrote:you could always cut that g-plug off on the servo and put on your own connectors and plug. that'll give you the option to change the leads around if you need to change it to another receiver. these guys have the kit to do it...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Products-10-Male-Futaba-JR-Hitec-Style-Servo-Connectors-1506-/321263056208?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4accc53550

So it is just a different end plug, no different signaling or anything?

I have end plugs, crimper, etc. Will give that a shot.
thanks!

once you rewire it with the new connectors it will be up to you to put the leads (positive, negative, signal) in the correct order for your receiver.

So the extra tires that came with it are AE 6821 (AKA T.Q.-71) and AE 6871 (AKA T.Q.-71).

In the photo they are on black wheels:


I wanted to see if there are some other wheels that may fit those tires but I cannot find the tires online anymore to even begin to look up wheels.

Are these standard tires or is there something I don't know?

Looks like a clean Caddy.

Not much to look at right now but here is the "New" RC10 CE I picked up.
I actually got it a few weeks ago but forgot to update this.

With it in hand I would say it is a few years newer than the one I had originally due to the black shock caps and the stealth trans holes but I can live with that. I already swapped over the black body mounts form the old one and will try to get the "original" tires I have on there this weekend.

My friend Steve (sgtsteve) caved in and bought one of the RC10's from me. It actually worked out really well because he wanted the newer chassis with the stealth holes and all the black parts that I had. I wanted the white stuff but with the CE wheels and before you know it I think we both got exactly what we wanted!

After the tear down and reassembly of my "new RC10", I came across a few items that needed attention. Mainly, the wiring was to be redone and I was missing a small felt ring retainer.

So what is the point of having a 3D printer if you can't use it to make small parts right? It's just PLA but this is a low stress part so ....


Works like a charm!




Then it was on to the wiring. Steve and I have both agreed to running the same ESCs so we went super cheap.




We also agreed to running the same motors ... or at least to using the same motor selections. Option #1 is going to be an Axial 20T. Option 2 is our choice of 15x2 motors. I think Steve also has a 27t to match my "stock associated" so those may see some action as well. I guess it just depends on what we get into.

Pulled apart an old "hot" motor I had and decided to give HH some money for a new 15x2 arm. I'm looking forward to it's arrival.


I finally got around to painting my body as well. I decided on a "busy" pattern because I feel like it fits the age well.




All in all I am happy with it. Still need to mount up original tires then do a bit more cleaning on it.

Gosh it has been almost 4 years since I got this bad boy and I have not even gotten around to running it.

That's sad and makes me think I should let it go.

I know you dug up your old build thread and now are trying to sell it but wanted to let you know that black tranny is a regular old 6 gear that was dyed black, not a mip.

GLWS

That was traded long ago to my friend Steve who took the other/newer RC10 I had along with all the black parts.