Need inspiration on competative RC10 OIN

[RC10th]

I know there is lots and lots of info scattered on here as far as parts go but not much info on how well things work. I'm getting the bug to build an RC10 capable of being in the top of the a-main and would like to hear from those who have built such cars.

I'm toying with a couple of ideas and know it's going to cost more then a new state of the art buggy

I originally wanted an alloy tub car but the more I think about it a graphite chassis car seems like a better idea, although an $80 carbon works chassis will really blow the budget on the car. A pre formed graphite chassis with truck kickup would be ideal.

Please post pics of complete cars and info on what works and what doesn't.

Edit: Or what works better on the track (ie stock caster/steering blocks vs wide GT conversion vs B4 caster/inline/trailing/steering)

[Charlie don't surf]

IMHO the stock CE configuration, with B4 wing mounts, T2 3* arm mounts and AE or TT B3 wheels has the best handling, and fastest package period. Very durable, predictable and fast, and A-Main capable assuming the driver is.

If you absolutely want a WOIN style, the the closer you stay to an RPM worlds conversion the better. And the truck rear tower is a huge handling no-no, and so are the GT wide axels IMHO- I would go Oranges' route

[Johnboy72]

So your saying a CE can out perform a WOIN build? I still would like to do a WOIN but at the end of the day, I want a RC10 that will beat modern buggies. I'm picking up another CE on Monday. But it's a 6 gear.

[Charlie don't surf]

The WOIN is easier to drive, but the CE setup is faster-

[scr8p]

The whole concept of the "old is new" car was to simply use off the shelf parts with no mods to install B4 wheels. Thats it. It was never sold to be better than an original car.

[Charlie don't surf]

It's almost odd how many have been raced though! (Kinda neat really)

[Johnboy72]

Thanks guys.

[losiXXXman]

It's almost odd how many have been raced though! (Kinda neat really)

AND, almost everyone who did that hub carrier thing to run B4 wheels, found that handling was better with the stock CE setup or a true RPM setup. The Harris boys, and Ruffy feel the same way you do don't they Reg?

[Charlie don't surf]

Jeff and his son were the ones that tried it first, and found it was better

[Jay Dub]

I currently race a aluminum tub car and consistently TQ/Win/Top 3 in the 17.5 class everytime I race. Locally our drivers are national caliber racers and are in the top 10 at JConcept races, Nationals, etc. My tub car it the most consistent 2wd car I have ever run. Like charlie said the std CE style car is very capable and very fast (i usually have fast lap of the night for eg.) The only "drawback" would be that the cars are less forgiving than current/modern cars. I would stay away from the CF chassis cars however. I think the aluminum tubs are much better suited for racing, more forgiving, better weight distribution, and aluminum absorbs energy better than CF plate so the car will be "smoother" a variety of surfaces. You should have no problem building a great car. -Jeff

[RC10th]

I figured a tub car would be the way to go as it would flex a bit more generating a more forgiving car that would ride the bumps better. I just know keeping on top of chassis tweak is going to be a constant thing.

I'm almost glad someone said stock configuration as I personally prefer the look of the CE. Also I take it the slightly narrower stock arms would add a bit of agility and corner grip over the wider Klein/ Dyno arms.

I never thought the GT axles would have been a good idea due to the steering arc, but stranger things have worked. I take it the 25* blocks are a must?

This car will go up against boosted mod cars and will most likely get an 8.5 combo. I've found the 8.5 to have the best drivability without being overpowered and still have more than enough speed. The next dilema is a 2.25 trans with B4 slipper or RPM trans, hopefully I can convince a machinists friend to knock up an RPM/B4 style top shaft.

[Jay Dub]

Chassis tweaks with the tub are not an issue. I have/had run my car in mod with an 8.5 combo far a long time, and it was as good there as in 17.5. The length of the arms is really not an issue either, though I have only run the short CE style arms. I have made plenty of parts for others (shock towers, arms, etc. ) and can attest that the longer arm front end needs a specialty tower to accomodate short shocks. Long shocks on the front of these cars is just not competative (more specifically short springs) in most situations. I have made short towers for these front ends, but have not seen produced or for sale in a while. The GT axles work fine, and I think actually help BECAUSE of the arc. More accurate akerman, wheel base change during turning, etc. 25* blocks are a must IMO. BTW the B4/.1/.2 layshafts are a drop-in in the stealth tranny. SO the standard 2 plate or new VCS will fit with no modification . -Jeff

[Charlie don't surf]

RPM trans is awesome for being difficult to fit a good slipper to, and eating idlers due to poor mesh with a small topshaft.

For my driving style and setup, the GT axles killed my corner speed from the center off-

[vsefiream]

Correct me if I'm not seeing this properly. Are the GT offset axles correcting the arc that is brought in by the offset change with B4 wheels? From what I thought, the arc with the GT axle B4 (positive offset) wheel combo is similar to an original axle and negative offset TQ style wheel? Arc would be that seen from the king pin correct?

[Sixtysixdeuce]

I think the aluminum tubs are much better suited for racing, more forgiving, better weight distribution, and aluminum absorbs energy better than CF plate so the car will be "smoother" a variety of surfaces.

I'll agree with that. After I built and installed my 4mm CF chassis, the car became more predictable, but also a lot more twitchy. Always handles the same, but also I notice small variations in the track that I didn't before.

The upside to rigid chassis is greater predictability in the handling.

The downside is exactly as Jaydub said; they are unforgiving.

I did mine to toughen the car up, as it's a play toy, not legal in any class with the 3,300 motor and 3S LiPo. The one I built with the intention of racing is a much thinner & more flexible composite chassis. It's basically a CE set-up, with an RPM trans & MIP truck steering bellcranks. Not currently legal with the 8.5T LRP motor, but that's gonna be swapped for a 17.5 soon.