Oops… Brushless + Stuck Steering=...

[ca-rj]

Just buy new spur gears. The slipper pads are reusable. I'm running 81/22 and it is fast enough to bring a smile to my face and still gives about 20-30 mins of runtime on a 2s 5000 mah pack. The motor and ESC are just warm to the touch after a full pack.

[sbsyncro]

Just buy new spur gears. The slipper pads are reusable. I'm running 81/22 and it is fast enough to bring a smile to my face and still gives about 20-30 mins of runtime on a 2s 5000 mah pack. The motor and ESC are just warm to the touch after a full pack.

Thanks. I just bought a 75 and an 81 that I can play around with (I already have a bucket full of pinion gears in various sizes).

My slipper is greasy (looks like clear silicone grease) so I bought a replacement in case I can't get it totally cleaned up.

[sbsyncro]

Hey guys,

Well, I've done it again - gone and broke my T4 within minutes of having it back on the road. I need to (1) become a better driver and (2) stop doing speed/temp/gearing tests up and down my street with all the Prius cars around here. (They sneak up behind you and when you suddenly realize that it is coming up behind you while your car is hurtling toward you at 40 mph, the evasive maneuvers usually result in damage!). Its crazy because I'm less than a mile from an actual track where I *should* go to practice and tune…

Anyway, I luckily had a box full of spare a-arms, bearing carriers, and bulkhead parts, but I've now used up my last rear hinge pins (9621), rear chassis plate (9570), and rear arm mount (9571). I've searched RPM's web site and don't see replacement parts for the T4 for the arm mount or the chassis plate. I have found machined aluminum parts from GPM racing, but I'm not crazy about aluminum parts as I've found they tend to develop slop in them even faster than plastic parts some times..

So… Does anyone know if RPM makes these replacement parts for the T4?

What about the GPM Racing stuff? Or should I just stock up on the stock parts and instead not run the car up and down the street… ?

[Sixtysixdeuce]

I haven't ever had a problem with the GPM or Hot Racing parts. Even Integy has been OK when I couldn't find the others (their billet versions if possible). But I do not use alloy arms, save for one truck, which I machined myself from 7075-T6. The chinese stuff certainly doesn't compare to HG or another truly quality brand, but it is stronger than stock (also heavier and more rigid, of course).

It doesn't hurt to use a little graphite or moly where alloy parts meet hinge pins.

When shooting for durability, I use RPM parts where ever possible, and aluminum where RPM offers nothing. Arm mounts, hub carriers, steering & caster blocks are the bits that frequently end up alloy.

[RC10th]

Sadly most alloy parts aren't even machined anymore, they are cast

[ca-rj]

I've broken the t-plate a few times in heavy bash sessions (usually involves flying my car 20+ feet off of sand dunes). They are fairly cheap though, so maybe you should buy a couple and a few sets of arms. There's nothing wrong with the stock parts and if you think about it, you need a fuseable link somewhere otherwise you're going to do something crazy like break the chassis.

Another suggestion is maybe you should go to a park and run your truck there. It sounds like it is too fast to be driven in a more confined space. Either that or turn down your throttle on your radio so the truck is slower.

[sbsyncro]

I've broken the t-plate a few times in heavy bash sessions (usually involves flying my car 20+ feet off of sand dunes). They are fairly cheap though, so maybe you should buy a couple and a few sets of arms. There's nothing wrong with the stock parts and if you think about it, you need a fuseable link somewhere otherwise you're going to do something crazy like break the chassis.

Another suggestion is maybe you should go to a park and run your truck there. It sounds like it is too fast to be driven in a more confined space. Either that or turn down your throttle on your radio so the truck is slower.

Yea, this is the approach I think I'm going to take. I ordered the SC10 parts to do the Hex conversion, so I don't think RPM or GPM parts are an option for at least the front bearing carriers. I've already replaced the front arms with RPM parts. I also bought a partial roller on ebay for $5 that has the whole front end and tub chassis (no rear suspension or mounts). So for now I'm sticking with stock parts other than swapping out the wheels and tires in favor of some 2WD Slash front 2.2/3.0 Proline Split Six wheels with Caliber tires. I'll post photos when I get it all set up.

And yes, you are right - I need to stop running it on the street outside my house. I'm terrible about being able to defer gratification and when I swap out gears or something, I just can't resist the temptation to walk outside and "try it real quick" (which is what is resulting in these catastrophic breakages..)

[Johnboy72]

During one of my Iraqi vacations we built a few tracks. I ran my T4 since I couldn't get nitro. It was a FT and most of the other guys were inexperienced Emaxx drivers. Needless to say if they could catch me or jump off the track, I often took a lot of damage. One thing I looked for was Ebay parts lots to stock up. Once I put on some of the stock RTR plastics, they held up to the bashing I received a lot better than the carbon stuff. Eventually I put a aluminum t plate and the front bulkhead on. Truck was pretty reliable without weighing a ton with aluminum everything. Bad thing about aluminum is once you replace something simple like arms, you'll start breaking the stuff that wasn't intended to break. Then your buying more aluminum parts. Next thing you know your truck weighs a ton. Another downfall is aluminum will bend and you might not catch it where the plastic will usually just break on failure. In conclusion, stock up on arms, rear mounts, etc.