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As I mentioned in my other thread I got out my Yokomo collection last night and set about allocating bits to builds. Here is my 99% complete Hot Trick conversion (I just need a wing). The only thing's not new (apart from some duplicates) are the front dual shock mounts and the chassis (so if you have these let me know).

From top left clockwise you have...

-Rear wheel spacers (for a wider rear track)
-Lowering pads (put them under the rear trailing arms to limit travel and lower the car)
-Two different coloured rear bulkheads
-Chassis
-Another rear bulkhead
-Front bumper kit
-L-shaped chassis stiffeners/body mounts
-Front arms
-Two front dual shock towers
-L-shaped chassis stiffeners/body mounts
-Rear suspension arm ties (to stop the rear arms flexing out and losing dog bones)
-Bulkhead with front arms
-Transmission receiver and speed controller mounts

Other bits

-Alloy wheels
-RPS SE roll bar



I believe this was one of Hot Trick's better conversions. They sorted out so many problems with the Dog Fighter chassis. The chassis isn't split so the tranny won't flex and break so easily. The rear arm ties, transmission receiver and speed controller mounts all stop inherent flexing problems too. Dual shock mounts are better than a mono shock. Stronger rear bulkhead and front arms...Definately one of their finest hours.

I can't wait to build it. I am going to experiment with dying the chassis red again to cover up the scratches though...fingers crossed.

Can't wait either, that's gonna ROCK mate

Really cool! I can't wait either. Do you have a body for this already?

RichieRich wrote:Really cool! I can't wait either. Do you have a body for this already?

I am not sure....

Ed,

Very nice!!!!!

Thanks for all the comments guys. Woobie I am going to send you a pm.

S W E E E E E E E E TTTTTT

I am "RED" with envy!



Cheers

Darryn Johnnson

Dr. Robotnik wrote:I am going to experiment with dying the chassis red again to cover up the scratches though...fingers crossed.

I almost forgot, before you re-dye, experiment with hitting the chassis with WD40, and other light oils. I've heard of guys using corn oil and even peanut butter to oil down the open pores of fiberglass and graphite to mask surface scratches. I think WD40 would do the trick, though. I think a re-dye might make the scratches darker and stand out more.

Eau Rouge wrote:experiment with hitting the chassis with WD40, and other light oils. I've heard of guys using corn oil and even peanut butter to oil down the open pores of fiberglass and graphite to mask surface scratches. I think WD40 would do the trick, though.

That sounds interesting.... I am going to have to try that. I have a used Worlds chassis that I would love to save.

Thanks for the nice comments guys, Darryn that was a delicious pun.

Eau Rouge I'll definately give your idea a go as I haven't started with the re-dying process yet, very interesting. Do I just rub some corn oil or peanut butter oil into the scratches? What is this meant to do in materials engineering terms? I am sure I've cleaned Hot Trick stuff with WD40 before and it looks great until the oil drys off...

My theory was that the red dye would only have penetrated so far into the material so that's why the scratches revealed white fibres. I was first going to test it on a graphite chassis which I was going to re-dye black...depending on that result would determine how I progressed to this chassis. I was scared of the possibility of darkening though. There must be a restoration method...

I need a camera before I start the projects that everyone would like to see like this and have instead been working on my secret projects and my runners...

I have used very light silicone shock oils to do the same thing, too. For me, WD40 has always worked well for a rather long time, with only a quick rub-down with a WD40-dampened paper towel every once in a while after that. Also, silicone lube sprays work to clean and shine stuff up like that, too.

Experiment with different things to see what works best for you. Some attract dust like a fiend, though. I tend to apply, let it soak in, then polish with a clean, dry microfiber polishing cloth or terry cloth towel.

Just a small update. The project trundles slowly on.

The chassis is cleaned and all extra glue has been removed. Asa has also provided the Uber rare titanium rear wing.

I am just after the alloy shock colours for RC10 or Kyosho shocks now and this project will be complete and ready for building.

I am hoping I don't get sick of building Yokomos before I get to this one, as it is the second to last one I'll build (I am going from worst to best)

black set just sold on ebay for $41 bucks

mikedealer wrote:black set just sold on ebay for $41 bucks

I am working out a trade for a set at the moment...well done Asso_man!

I didn't have any money to bid on that but watched it. Astonishing price. I fear 2008 may see big spending from 'the names'.