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Chassis prep ~ powdercoat
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 1:21 pm
by orangemazda
Quick question for you guys,
I'm gathering up a bunch of parts to build an OIN runner and I'm going to have the aluminum parts powdercoated. Do I need to strip the ano off the parts before the powdercoat is laid down? Should I use oven cleaner or sandblast them? If sandblast, do I need to protect the threaded screw holes in some way?
Thanks
Re: Chassis prep ~ powdercoat
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 1:40 pm
by Asso_man!
I wouldn't powder coat the shocks, you might have tolerance issues. It will also fill the threads and shrink the holes in the chassis that will will have to re tap. Best thing would be oven cleaner (it must include a diluted amount of caustic soda to work) or simply use diluted caustic soda (quite messy an dangerous stuff) but I'm not sure about the dilution proportion. Sand blasting sounds ok as well. Why not ano it? It's more resistant, lighter and looks better IMO. Of course you have less colours to choose from...
Re: Chassis prep ~ powdercoat
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 2:03 pm
by orangemazda
Yeah, I was just planning on doing the nose plate, the chassis, and the motor plate.
I was thinking, if I sandblast it, I could thread some old screws into the holes to protect the threads?
Re: Chassis prep ~ powdercoat
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 2:32 pm
by MotoObscura
It's ok to powder coat over anodizing, in fact I've heard that it is a recommended base surface for aluminum parts.
Re: Chassis prep ~ powdercoat
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 5:28 pm
by LTO_Dave
orangemazda wrote:Yeah, I was just planning on doing the nose plate, the chassis, and the motor plate.
I was thinking, if I sandblast it, I could thread some old screws into the holes to protect the threads?
I have a bunch of old screws set aside just for this purpose. Unless the powdercoater knows enough to use silicone plugs or screws to fill the holes, you'll have to re-tap them once it's finished.
I've powdered over anodizing with no problems, but I usually sandblast RC10 tubs/noses/motor plates just to have a rough surface for the powder to stick to. You may also have to run a countersink bit in the chassis holes for the screws to sit flush, depending on how many coats and the thickness of the powder.