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just picked up a rc10t3 roller off Kijiji for 60 shipped and am looking into puting it on the track

any thing i should watch out for or any upgrades that it might need

It's a pretty solid truck, you don't need a whole lot The main things I'd do are bearings, CVD's and either Associated or Lunsford ti tie-rods. If you feel compelled to do more, I'd say maybe a carbon front tower, an RPM gear cover, RPM rear arm mounts, RPM steering arms, and a RPM front bumper. If you don't have a battery strap, a Traxxas Slash one will work.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_926/products_id/26644/n/Traxxas-Battery-Hold-Down-Retainer-Allows-For-Installation-of-Taller-Multi-Cell-Batteries?utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product-Feeds&gclid=CM3_g4SAnb0CFYN0OgodhTcApQ

ok cool ill stop by the shop tomorow and see if they have one

i tore it down today and found the front upper brace cracked, rear axel bearings blown and bushings in the tranty but all in all good shape so i stoped at the hobby store and picked up all the bearings it needed and ordered the upper plate

going to rebuild the shocks and the upper plate should be in fri .. if i can ill have it ready for sundays race

Yeah get that brace fixed and make sure it's always tight or say goodbye to the chassis. I'd say those little nubs there are the weakest point to the series. Best of luck on the track!

so here is some more picts i took last night

I have a b3 and t3. the rear arm mounts break the most followed by the stock ball cuips. I remember getting lundsford ti tierods when I bought the t3 team new. it was advised in RCCA as the stock ones are junk. I'd advise the b4 slipper setup(is the b5 setup the same?) if you're going brushless. I have a Castle 5700kv in mine and the stock b3/t3 slipper just wasn't cutting it.

The newer t4 CVD's fit and they have that newer retaining clip to help keep the pin from backing out in the universal. you may need extra axle shims as the t4 axle may be a bit longer.

ya ive been looking at cvd and new ball ends .. it already has 3deg tow-in blocks

and this is the track i want to take it too .. they just added a wall ride

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10153941008650529&set=o.101246906660471&type=2&theater

I'd advise the b4 slipper setup(is the b5 setup the same?) if you're going brushless.

If one needs a new input shaft or slipper, then it makes sense to update to B4 parts, namely for spur gear availability. But if your existing slipper is complete, there's no good reason to change it. I've hammered on them with some pretty potent brushless set-ups, no problems to date.

My CE buggy has the stock stealth and slipper, power is a Leopard 3430KV 4 pole motor, AE SC1200BL ESC and a Turnigy 6,000 mAh 50C 3S lipo. Been just fine.

My 10T also has the stock equipment, been running a Hobbywing 10T 550 motor with the HW SC10 ESC on a 2S 8,000 mAh 40-80 C pack. It'll flip the truck over backwards, but the trans and slipper have had no issues.

My composite buggy has an RPM housed stealth, stock slipper. Been pushing that one with a Hobbywing 13.5 Xerun sensored can on 2S.

My T2 has not had any trans or slipper mods, running a Dynamite 5,800KV 2 pole on a 6,600 mAh 40C 3S with an AE SC900BL ESC.

Stock trans and slipper in my wife's B3 with a HW 9T motor & 60A ESC on 2S.

Stock slippers on all of my GTs with .18 engines, too. I even had one of them running with a Picco .21 for a time, before I plunked an OFNA .32 in there and ran the screws all the way through the hub.

when I first put that castle system in my b3 I could not set my slipper loose enough. any looser and the nut didn't have any meat left on the shaft thread to stay tight. I was pulling wheelies and completely breaking traction with just a tap of the trigger. it was also my first experience with brushless so I could have just not been used to it. but when I switched to the newer b4 slipper I helped quite a bit.

when I first put that castle system in my b3 I could not set my slipper loose enough. any looser and the nut didn't have any meat left on the shaft thread to stay tight. I was pulling wheelies and completely breaking traction with just a tap of the trigger. it was also my first experience with brushless so I could have just not been used to it. but when I switched to the newer b4 slipper I helped quite a bit.

Sounds like something wasn't right there.

Also, what pinion/spur were you running? My T2 with the Dynamite 5,800 is geared 14/87. Castle systems are jerky, but not so bad you can't control them........unless they're way over-geared and/or the timing & punch set too high. I did an e-converted GT with a 3,500 KV 550 can on 3S, and it was geared to the moon (28/62) for speed runs. Same condition regarding even light throttle application causing wheelies or spin-outs. It also cooked that Reedy motor in fairly short order. When I put the new motor in (same can), I doubled the reduction with a 14T pinion. Made it much more manageable, yet still capable of over 50 MPH.

currently 19/84 for the gearing with the b4 slipper. all on road. it may have been a slightly higher gearing with the stock slipper. I don't remember. it was my first experience with brushless and I was expecting the castle system to be more on the "sport" side of things and I was totally blown away by the power. my only other experience with electric motors were stock and mild modifies from the 90's. all I remembered from the brushed days was if anything got too hot you're suppose to gear down. so that's probably what I did with the castle system initially. I probably kept the gearing too high because it wasn't getting hot since brushless is so much more efficient.

I was expecting the castle system to be more on the "sport" side of things and I was totally blown away by the power.

Sport systems aren't necessarily lacking in power. Castle stuff makes tons of power. What they are lacking is refinement; Castle just isn't as tunable or smooth as something like the Tekin RSX or Hobbywing Xerun V3.1, which are $200 ESCs.

I've got a Hobbyiwng SC8WP ($65) mated to a Turnigy 2100KV Trackstar sensorless ($55) in my 1/8 buggy to SCT conversion. The thing is an animal on 4S, but you can tell the difference between it and my 801XT truggy with a Hobbywing Xerun 150A sensored ESC and a Beeman 2Y 2150KV sensored motor.

well tryed to race last weekend but rebuilt the shocks the night before and one of the rear seals came apart and leaked fluid down the tire so i couldnt get it out to race

just picked up a couple more parts to get her running and might have it running this weekend

had a good time on the weekend with the rc10t3 .. quaified 2nd and finished 3rd .. not bad for a 14 year old truck with a brushed system racing short course trucks with brushless

the track is realy tight so they couldnt use their power

Striker tires are AWESOME on carpet, it's a shame proline discontinued them.

We used to use Paragon FXII. Sometimes I would sauce them the night before, wrap them in glad wrap and store them in a plastic bag untill race time. I also siped them like a dirt oval tire for more forward drive.