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anyone run a tekin 411 speedo /brushed motor on a lipo battery ???.
i want to run a brushed setup in a yok works 92 but my old nimhs are now past it so would like to run a tekin 411 and 12x2 motor with a lipo battery. thoughts ???

http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/esc/tekin-tsc-410s2-411p2-411g2-420g2-manual.pdf

http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/esc/tekin-tsc-410s-411p-411g-420f-manual.pdf

According from the manual it can take up to 11 cells, that's 13.2V in nicd and nimh with 300A continuous current rating compare to 7.4V lipo. I think it would be fine.

For your peace of mind use battery regulator if you still have doubts.

alien3t wrote:http://teamnovak.com/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=410

Nice! Forgot the low voltage cut-off protection.

Let u know how you get on I've got some old brushed Speedos that I have been thinking of useing

in my rc10 im running a novak m5 with a 5000 lipo 2s and a 19t doubble with no problems

I use lipo's with alot of different vintage esc's and have no problem with any of them. Just stop at first signs of battery dumping,if you are smart and don't mind walking to pick up the RC at first sign of dumping you don't need a lipo cut off... They are just insurance for newbies IMO..Keep an eye on temps and enjoy mate..

I am using lipos in all 3 of my RC10's. All 3 are brushed. I use a cheap $3 low voltage alarm if we are just running them around the street or park. At the track, I don't run one. With the extra punch and longer runtimes, I don't see why anyone wouldn't want to run lipos.

i have, and it worked fine, no probs!

bully wrote:I use lipo's with alot of different vintage esc's and have no problem with any of them. Just stop at first signs of battery dumping,if you are smart and don't mind walking to pick up the RC at first sign of dumping you don't need a lipo cut off... They are just insurance for newbies IMO..Keep an eye on temps and enjoy mate..

exactly that!!!

Good info here. All my old NiCd packs were F'd and I have been on the fence between lipos and NiMh to get back into it. I prefer oldish LRP speedos and brushed stockers and I had my suspicions that lipos with "conventional" electronics would be fine. I may go lipo, but what would I do with my old Tekin BC5a? Must think a little more on this one. Thanks for the thread. Excellent.

Mark

I have been running lipos with most of my vintage brushed ESCs, however, just found out last night that not all of them will handle it. Anyway, I found out after some research that one of the ESCs is not rated for use with lipos. Hindsight - should have researched it first. The other one I have had temperature trouble even while using NIMHs, so not a huge surprise, but still irritating. I figured just for setup and making sure everything worked, a lipo would work fine since none of my NiCds nor NIMHs were charged. Nope. Live and learn.

Are there any fairly inexpensive brushed ESCs that would be recommended for use with lipos? Also, will MSCs handle lipos? I run MSCs in a few vehicles and even used the stock one in my RC10 for a little while last summer, just for old time's sake. I figure the resistors would probably get hot enough to spontaneously combust then start a lipo fire.

The traxxas xl-5 is an excellent brushed esc. its waterproof, has lipo cut off, and half power training mode.

Thanks! I actually already have a couple of XL-5s that I got with vehicles. I agree that they are excellent ESCs and even have lipo cutoff. Currently I'm just trying to find something a bit less expensive. Any experience with:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311070108928?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

bully wrote:I use lipo's with alot of different vintage esc's and have no problem with any of them. Just stop at first signs of battery dumping,if you are smart and don't mind walking to pick up the RC at first sign of dumping you don't need a lipo cut off... They are just insurance for newbies IMO..Keep an eye on temps and enjoy mate..

For the $3 that a Lipo alarm costs, I see no reason not to use one. While you may not burn up the battery by running down to the point where it has noticeably reduced output, the lower you run the voltage, the less charge cycles they'll endure. If you stop them at 3.5 or 3.6 volts instead of the ~3v range that you're at when they dump, you can get 2x or more charges out of them.