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Hey

I just tried to dye a buch of parts and ended up with a very bad result. I have doe this before many times with success but this dye brand seems not to work at all. Just ended up with brownish parts instead of pure black. In the instruction they mention that the cloths should be wased with a lot of aslt in the water before the dying process... What is that?

Anyone used these dye+salt combinations? I did not put salt in the water (never did)... So what's different?

Anyone can help?

I once used Dylon powder dye for cloth, it MUST be used with salt because salt is the fixative agent, you won't have any result if you don't use it... If I remember well you need 500 gr of salt for a complete package of dye powder. You'll need to boil the parts for more than an hour to have a good result... Did you use the same brand?

Yeah Dylon was the brand.... Well well OK Get it now. An hour! Man that's slow....

I have never had any problems with RIT fabric dye

same... used rit and dylon with great results on the stove top simmering the parts and inspecting every 15 or so minutes

marui hunter 73 wrote:same... used rit and dylon with great results on the stove top simmering the parts and inspecting every 15 or so minutes

But I suppose you used the salt for the dylon dye?

I have used Dylon and salt, 20 mins, no problems. Follow the instructions, make sure all the dye is dissolved, then add the salt and parts. The dye comes as a powder in that little pot to the left of the pan.





Good luck mate I hope it works out.

Hi Ed thanks...

I'll give it another shot. How much dye did you have in the pot? looks like I had much more than that, but again I did not put the salt...

I went to the Dylon site and got these instructions for you.

Dylon Multi-Purpose Dye Instructions
· Suitable fabrics: nylon

· One tin is sufficient for up to 250g/8 oz dry weight fabric.

You will need:
· 30g / 1oz of salt
· Rubber gloves
· A saucepan

Instructions:

1. Weigh dry fabric. Wash fabric thoroughly even if new and leave damp.

2. Fill saucepan or similar container with enough hot water to cover
article and allow easy movement during dyeing.

3. Wearing rubber gloves, dissolve dye in 500ml/1 pint of boiling
water, stir well.

4. Add solution to vessel with 30g/1oz salt, stirring well.

5. Put in clean, damp article and raise temperature to simmer, then stir
constantly for 20 minutes to ensure even dyeing.

6. Rinse article until water run clear. Results are not colourfast, so dyed
garments should be turned inside out and washed separately.

7. Dry away from direct heat and sunlight.


That little pot (approx 50 grams I think) allowed me to dye about two and a half RC10's worth of plastic.

careful with that dye on the granite!!! English brown?? If you get any stains, let me know im in the biz and have some tricks to get stains out.

I use the liquid RIT and love it. You have to be careful as not to make a HUGE mess, but it is pretty much a no brainer. I use no formula. I generally put the entire bottle in and start with the water till all parts are covered. Crank up the heat and just pull them every once in a while to check for color darkness.

I used to use a brand called Tintex... Everywhere in Québec (Canada) but can't find that here in the Netherlands... The only thing I saw was the Dylon. I'll buy another box and give it a second chance... WITH SALT.

One more question... I want to dye fiberglass shock towers also. IS there something special to do? I suppose they need to boil longer than regular nylon parts?

Thanks

I never dyed fiberglass but they can easily be painted.

AYKBOBCAT wrote:One more question... I want to dye fiberglass shock towers also. IS there something special to do? I suppose they need to boil longer than regular nylon parts?

Thanks

I've done fiberglass shock towers and they take the dye really well and rather quick. I tried doing a fiberglass t-plate for a 12L and it would not take the color except for the rough edges which now just look dirty.