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So just wondering if anyone on here has used the Hobbywing 90A V2.1 esc and how they like it?

Been using it since 2012, no problem encountered. has lots of tuning options may it be for stock or mod motors. happy user here. been using V2.0 since 2009 no issue so far. never tried the v3.0, heard some issues that was later fixed with the v3.1.

note: using the 120A paired with an 8.5T on a RC10.

Sweet thanks! I thought it was a pretty good esc as i had really seen anything bad about it. Im going to pick one up for my gold pan.

mikea96 wrote:Sweet thanks! I thought it was a pretty good esc as i had really seen anything bad about it. Im going to pick one up for my gold pan.

one draw back would be just the FAN, you need to place it and mount it on the chassis at it will hit the body if you put in on the chassis, mine I placed it on top the rear bulkhead.

also get the program card.

Before you buy that one, because I almost did too (you're talking Xerun, right?), have a look at the HobbyKing X-Car 120a ESC. Some reviews state it's the exact same unit as the equivalent HobbyWing and I found it to be less expensive.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28377__hobbyking_x_car_120a_brushless_car_esc_sensored_sensorless_.html



*There are also a few reviews reporting a delayed response to reverse inputs. Has anyone else experienced this with either the X-Car or Xerun ESC's?

Stick to the genuine article if you can, the 90 is good but if you can afford it get the 120. I've used both the V2.0 and V2.1 120A ESC's without trouble, and the V3.1 which is amazing.

RC10th wrote:Stick to the genuine article if you can, the 90 is good but if you can afford it get the 120. I've used both the V2.0 and V2.1 120A ESC's without trouble, and the V3.1 which is amazing.

This made me chuckle a bit. Not long ago hobbywing was considered a cheap knock-off, now it's the "genuine article".

GodSpeed wrote:Before you buy that one, because I almost did too (you're talking Xerun, right?), have a look at the HobbyKing X-Car 120a ESC. Some reviews state it's the exact same unit as the equivalent HobbyWing and I found it to be less expensive.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28377__hobbyking_x_car_120a_brushless_car_esc_sensored_sensorless_.html



*There are also a few reviews reporting a delayed response to reverse inputs. Has anyone else experienced this with either the X-Car or Xerun ESC's?

That's the one thing I don't like about the Xcar esc's, the reverse delay. You have to tap reverse three times to make it move. Seems like overkill to me. I would prefer an adjustable delay. It can be a bit of a pain, but it's a minor inconvenience IMO. I don't know if that's adjustable. I got the usb programming link, but haven't even tied it yet. The esc worked so good right or of the box i haven't felt the need to adjust anything.

I did have one of my hk esc's die on me recently, a 10 month old xcar 60. It was kind of strange. I had my car sitting with the wheels off the ground and running at low speed, I was checking out a wobbly wheel, and it just made a fuse popping sound and quit sending power to the motor. Still powered receiver and servo. A couple of emails to hk and they are sending me a new one. Didn't even have to send the old one back.

Hobbywing make both cheap and high end ESC's. Of course some of the basic ones are so so. For the higher end ESC's many main stream companies use rebranded Hobbywing ESC's and some flash their own software. I doubt you'd find many speed controls as good as the V3.1.

Leave it to the sneaky Chinese to make cheap knock offs.

I run a 90A 2.1 with a Xerun 13.5 in my composite craft buggy, very smooth and highly tunable arrangement. Also have the 120A with an LRP 8.5T in my XXX4. I am totally sold on Hobbywing ESCs, have been slowly switching everything over to them as other brands burn up. They are the only ones that have survived me.

I run them in my 1/8 scales as well, and they take the abuse. Got an SC8WP in my SCT-converted 801x, which is pushing an Excelorin 1,700KV on 4S, and I used a Xerun 150 with a Beeman 2150 can in my 801XT truggy, which has now seen somewhere around 65-70 4S packs of hard running with absolutely no trouble.

justinspeed79 wrote:

GodSpeed wrote:Before you buy that one, because I almost did too (you're talking Xerun, right?), have a look at the HobbyKing X-Car 120a ESC. Some reviews state it's the exact same unit as the equivalent HobbyWing and I found it to be less expensive.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28377__hobbyking_x_car_120a_brushless_car_esc_sensored_sensorless_.html



*There are also a few reviews reporting a delayed response to reverse inputs. Has anyone else experienced this with either the X-Car or Xerun ESC's?

That's the one thing I don't like about the Xcar esc's, the reverse delay. You have to tap reverse three times to make it move. Seems like overkill to me. I would prefer an adjustable delay. It can be a bit of a pain, but it's a minor inconvenience IMO. I don't know if that's adjustable. I got the usb programming link, but haven't even tied it yet. The esc worked so good right or of the box i haven't felt the need to adjust anything.

I did have one of my hk esc's die on me recently, a 10 month old xcar 60. It was kind of strange. I had my car sitting with the wheels off the ground and running at low speed, I was checking out a wobbly wheel, and it just made a fuse popping sound and quit sending power to the motor. Still powered receiver and servo. A couple of emails to hk and they are sending me a new one. Didn't even have to send the old one back.

So you think the reverse thing is an intentional "feature" and not a malfunction? Interesting. I too ordered the USB programmer so I'll see if I can program that out once it arrives. Thanks.

I'm going to run the v2.1 and Ready 10.5 in my goldpan

So you think the reverse thing is an intentional "feature" and not a malfunction? Interesting. I too ordered the USB programmer so I'll see if I can program that out once it arrives. Thanks.

it helps not to destroy your tranny/motor/esc, with the delay it will help to settle the direction of the gears (forward) once its in a full stop then you can reverse. In HW, there is also a delay, once you have set it on the program card/via pc software then you are off. you need to properly calibrate first your esc/tx so that you can get the correct reverse response. sometimes when you change settings on your esc and do not do the calibration, the reverse function does not respond quickly to reverse inputs thus the more taping of the reverse throttle.

it helps not to destroy your tranny/motor/esc, with the delay it will help to settle the direction of the gears (forward) once its in a full stop then you can reverse.

I can appreciate that you're trying to think this through and come up with logical explanation for said feature, but unfortunately you missed the mark completely; virtually all RC cars, nitro or electric, brake on the input side of the transmission or differential, which creates far more force on the "coast" side of the gears than actual reverse action.

Can't think of the drivetrain in an RC car in the same terms as that of a full scale motor vehicle. Some basic similarities exist, but RC is obviously far simpler, and not dealing with anywhere near the forces involved in accelerating/stopping a 2 ton vehicle. As scale goes up, everything becomes proportionally weaker; A respectably potent RC car has a power-to-weight ratio similar to a pro mod dragster.

1/10 scale size, 1/1,000 scale weight.

RC10th wrote:Stick to the genuine article if you can, the 90 is good but if you can afford it get the 120. I've used both the V2.0 and V2.1 120A ESC's without trouble, and the V3.1 which is amazing.

What´s the main differences between the V3.1 and the older ones? Also do you feel any differences at the track?