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I've decided to attempt the build of Gene Husting's First RC10. Since I do not have the skills to hand form a chassis, the basis of the build will be a Classic RC10 Re-Release. My goal is to use as many Classic parts as possible, while staying true to the theme. Some of the non-classic parts will include:

Single Stock Servo Saver mounted in the center (Have)
Tamiya Frog Front wheels and Tires (Have/On Order)
Nicd Sanyo Battery Pack w/ Duct Tape Bands on each end(Have)
Novak Servo's (Have)
Reedy Modified Motor (Need)
Black Associated Decals (Have)
Rear Tires - Proline Knobby (Have)
Wing Tubes - Anodized Gold (Need to have done)
Tie Rods and rod ends (Need to find)
6-Gear Trans - Remove felt seals and caps (Have)
Original nose, trimmed per photos and AE logo sanded (Need to find a clean one)
Chassis - Trimmed per photos's (Have, need to trim)
Shocks - Strip gold, Aluminum Collars, Dye Rod Ends Red, Edinger Style Spring Cups (Need to make)
Rear Shock Tower - Custom Fab (Need)
Receiver - N/A???
Speed Control - N/A???

I plan on trimming the front of the chassis to match Gene's. Eventually I would like to re-anodize aluminum parts to a light gold.

Future Improvements:
I would love to somehow procure a chassis without the 4-40 holes
Machine some of the parts out of nylon

Let me know your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks Limestang

HI!... Pretty easy to do. I've been building one for about 4 months now. Still working on the perfect colour match for the chassis in powdercoat. I hate anodizing. I've got everything done but the custom front/rear shock towers.

Excellent HP Freak- Powder coating is a great idea.

Did you find a way to fill the extra holes?

Did you shorten the nose?

Can you post some photos?

Thanks Limestang

HI!... I cut and modified both the chassis and nose plate. Tig welded up the chassis and tig'ed up all the chassis holes not in use. Sorry, no pics yet.

Il looks like the nose plate is polished on the front but the AE logo?

I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

SteveK wrote:I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

These are great, sorry to hijack, but will these be correct/more correct for an early unstamped edinger than the classic rod ends?

mtbkym01 wrote:

SteveK wrote:I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

These are great, sorry to hijack, but will these be correct/more correct for an early unstamped edinger than the classic rod ends?

No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though

gomachv wrote:No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though

ok, cool, so much to learn with these cars, thanks

gomachv wrote:No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though

I thought he was building the prototype. Which would require the 2-56 hardware.

Edit: Ah, I missed the question about the Edinger cars about the quoted post. Switching from Safari to Tapatalk is not always ideal.


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