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For making connections to the motor and Deans connectors for the ESC and battery?

Solid core, Rosin core, Acid core....something else specific?

Thanks.

60/40 rosin is the standard electronic solder. Electrical silver solder is probably considered "best" but it's a bit harder to work with and more expensive. I like the thin stuff, .035-.050 for me

Thank you.

So I've just opened up the battery leads and female Deans connectors. This looks fun. Any tips?

The battery leads almost look like they have solder on them already.

I bought some silver solder and YouTubed soldering Deans connectors. Good results there.

Old soldering iron is junk though. Good thing it's spring and my money tree is budding.

ChisaiKuso wrote:

I agree with this but you can't buy it anymore.

RC10th wrote:I agree with this but you can't buy it anymore.

What?! I did not know this.

Now I am wishing that I had not been using my supply of the stuff on my backyard bashers for the past few years.

If you know where to still buy it let me know. Or similar performing solder, surely it's rebranded solder from some company.

Novak is selling silver solder nowadays.

buy this and you should never need any more. This is the industry standard:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO

silver solder is OK, but melts at a higher temp and does not wet out or flow as nicely. the kester rosin flux is very active and works well on less than ideally prepped surfaces.

jwscab wrote:buy this and you should never need any more. This is the industry standard:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO

silver solder is OK, but melts at a higher temp and does not wet out or flow as nicely. the kester rosin flux is very active and works well on less than ideally prepped surfaces.

Silver solder is more than "OK". For backyard bashing and most local racing any solder that is easy to work with is perfectly adequate. At extreme levels of competition, however, every little detail counts. Keep in mind that strength, vibration resistance, and electrical conductivity all go up with the addition of silver in the solder.

ChisaiKuso wrote:

jwscab wrote:buy this and you should never need any more. This is the industry standard:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO

silver solder is OK, but melts at a higher temp and does not wet out or flow as nicely. the kester rosin flux is very active and works well on less than ideally prepped surfaces.

Silver solder is more than "OK". For backyard bashing and most local racing any solder that is easy to work with is perfectly adequate. At extreme levels of competition, however, every little detail counts. Keep in mind that strength, vibration resistance, and electrical conductivity all go up with the addition of silver in the solder.

True, but I think jwscab is making a recommendation based on the assumption that most members are just looking for an adequate performing solder, and since this one is easier to work with it's a better choice for most. Please don't take this as an argumentative statement, I'm just sayin'.

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:True, but I think jwscab is making a recommendation based on the assumption that most members are just looking for an adequate performing solder, and since this one is easier to work with it's a better choice for most. Please don't take this as an argumentative statement, I'm just sayin'.

I agree with you on this...

exactly the point of my suggestion.

silver solder has specific places where there is benefit; a fat blob of solder on a motor lead is probably a place where it's benefits are marginally measurable. Used for motor lead joints, with all the losses before and after the joint, is like having a 12 lane super highway with one on and one off ramp.

As a connector plating it's a much more effective application(silver, that is), but is subject to oxidation almost immediately.