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I was searching for Lar's parma scorpion on google and came across this Japanese site, don't understand a word but if you go to the bottom, there are links to other cool vintage kyosho scorpion hopups. I was stoked to see these parma hop ups, way cool, its like going back in time. Never knew there was so much history behind the kyosho scorpion buggies.

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/scotoma84/6948204.html

Definitely some cool stuff there. I'm glad I saw this website and how the Parma rear shock tower is used. I was thinking of buying one from eBay but see now it's not going to work for what I need it for. I've been at a stand still on my modified scorpion because the rear wheels rub my damper springs

That is great stuff Ron! Thanks for sharing the link. I would love to get my hands on one of those aluminum gear covers!

thanks, TM Ru22311!

Great stuff, a real eye opener. Its not surprising cause these were manufactured by Japanese in Japan and first got circulated in Japan, so these parts- hopups can be found there easy enough, not saying they can't be found in US, we have plenty of those, but hidden no one knowing about them. Here you can see how the right hopups look, beautiful and nice, great for that custom look and performance. Check out the front jellybean slot wheels of the parma scorpion, looks nice, too bad we don't have a clearer pic. I have not never seen that type of parma finned shock, defiantly there not just to look cool but does serve purpose.

I remember the standard grasshopper rear aluminum dampers have a plunger ontop of the piston that moves up when the shock is compressed, real innovative, that takes care of the increase in volume when the piston shaft moves further into the cylinder, we know that oil does not contract.

Shodog - what type of shocks are you using, maybe they are of thicker diameter or the angle is such that they are almost vertical and touching the tires? You could extend the pillow ball so it does clear touching the tires? If that don't work, try relocating the shock, you have a hole in the rear arm that you can use.

Guys have you seen all the links at the bottom, you have many different types of buggys there. I like the parma body the most, very bold and I like how it cuts off just before the shocks to show off the the shocks and the rear mechanics of the buggy,

and what do you think about the aluminum gear cover???? Iknow TM Ru22311 WOULD WNAT ONE

ron wrote:
Shodog - what type of shocks are you using, maybe they are of thicker diameter or the angle is such that they are almost vertical and touching the tires? You could extend the pillow ball so it does clear touching the tires? If that don't work, try relocating the shock, you have a hole in the rear arm that you can use.

here is my set up I'm trying to use. The dampers are Kyosho CB88 with a CRP coil over set. The tire slightly rubs the spring of the shock

what kind of rear wheels are you using? maybe convert to a 1/4" to hex adapter and shim out a little bit? Or convert to 3/16" axle and use a longer variant to get the backspacing needed.

jwscab wrote:what kind of rear wheels are you using? maybe convert to a 1/4" to hex adapter and shim out a little bit? Or convert to 3/16" axle and use a longer variant to get the backspacing needed.

exactly what jwscab said, you could do that. that's the only way these were fitted in the first place I guess. I like to say the CB 88s look very nice . I have a pair but not as nice looking as yours. Keeping those for 1/8 project. correction - I have the 89's. Replaced the solid aluminum piston with a plastic one, used another shaft altogether.
You can not camber them too much or at all inwards to clear the tires, they will touch the roll cage. Either get longer rod ends to raise the bottom retainer or use spaces to shift the tires out just enough.

If your not worried about it being original I can whack you out a rear tower and let you drill the holes a bit better for clearance just let me know, I already have one to copy

Hey, Shodog, I was wondering about the MIP rear trailing arms you got there, It has its advantages - doesn't break as the aluminum ones do under the extreme stress that it may face. Are these lighter or about the same weight as the standard aluminum ones?

I am thinking that you got to go with longer axles. No matter what you do with the top part of the shock, its going to give you very little clearance at the bottom end. I used the standard tapered outer axles, threw in the metal drive washers and put a standard hex drive and than my aluminum wheels, works fine.