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Anyone researched or re anodized an aluminum chassis? I was wondering what the results and costs were.

There are a lot of things to consider:

What will it be used for (runner or shelf queen)?
Do want it shiney or satin finished?
What color (gold/black)? The black will require less prep. The gold should be prepped so that the aluminum has the same texture, shine. If it's not prepped correctly, it'll look like crap.

I would suggest looking for a local anodizer to find out their prices. maybe, they can just throw your chassis in with another job, and you'll just have to pay for the prep work.

I've looked into the home anodizing kits, but I decided that it would be too dangerous (for me). I've also seen a home power coating kit which contained a metalic gold finish...maybe someone else can provide info on that process.

Regards,
highwayracer

caswellplating.com sells everything to plate/anodize/powdercoat you would ever need, their prices are high but they are do it yourself kits.

mikedealer wrote:caswellplating.com sells everything to plate/anodize/powdercoat you would ever need, their prices are high but they are do it yourself kits.

i'm liking the deluxe anodizing kit. i wonder how long it'd take to get my $800 back out of it?

Well I Googled metal finishing places near me and found Street Chopper Magazine had a pretty decent write up with pictures of their process.
Here's the link:

http://www.streetchopperweb.com/tech/0408stc_anodizing_aluminum/index.html

I'm thinking about going with hard ano black, since I'm looking for a factory flat finish.


We will see what happens.

I may get my shock caps re-anodized. Not sure if it should be matte or gloss, mine are so marked up I can barely tell!

I had some good results with "home anodizing":

first test on an aluminium tube:


Second test on 2 Esc radiators (they were gold before):


BUT!! After 4 tests, I never had any good result in black...I tried Dylon Ebony black and black ink.

ra272 wrote:I had some good results with "home anodizing":

first test on an aluminium tube:


Second test on 2 Esc radiators (they were gold before):


BUT!! After 4 tests, I never had any good result in black...I tried Dylon Ebony black and black ink.

What process are you using mate? Maybe I or someone else here can help and I'd be interested to know what you've used at home. I have a bunch of red Kyosho shocks which I'd love to re-furbish.

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

or

http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/anodize.shtml This one used to be real good, but it seems he has condensed his page.

I'd hazard a guess and say that the black top caps probably lost their electrical connection during anodizing then...

Look for failed electrical connections, too little current draw, not long enough anodizing time, too small of cathode size, automatic battery charger or too weak of acid. Check the wire, if it takes the dye but the part does not, then the connection failed at some point during anodizing.

Thanks everyone for all of your replies.

Update:

Well I just got my parts back from the anodizer. I was slightly afraid of picking the parts up though, since the shop manager quoted me $180, which I went with hoping for a reduced price at pick up. After reading the invoice thoroughly though, I noticed that the min charge was $225. Oh well, this was a test and the parts better be the best hard black anodized aluminum I ever saw for that price. I was pleasantly surprised though when I got there and the damage was only $120. I had my "C" stamped world chassis, 2 nose plates (one scratched, one new), the motor plate, and the nose tubes. My goal was to get a factory look but with a finish that was less susceptible to scratches, so I went with hard black.

The parts are nothing spectacular just minus scratches. Hope you guys approve.

Here is the result:

JPAE07...any before shots? I have some I want done also, and I am also in SoCal area. If you could PM me the shop name, I will gladly add this to my ToDo list for this year....

Before pics would be nice... The only ones I have are the ones the guy used to list the car. A little misleading though since he shot the bottom of the chassis in the only spot where it wasnt scratched. A little misleading. Here are the pics though.

Very nice!!

I had my first very good results with black anodization last week, instead of dylon black dye, I used permanent black marker ink. I had to make three coats, because the anodization coat dry the ink immediatly.

A tube for testing, when anodized, the black marker ink became scratch proof:



Associated shock caps



Traxxas TRX1 shock caps (they were blue)



I want to make bigger parts, but I have to find a giant marker ......

Man I need to get me an anodizing set-up, well done lads. Woot!