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Here is my setup sheet from 2014 VONATS for the XX4...

I'll be posting some build tips on how to build the car and make it more reliable as well.

Cool, thanks. I'm seriously considering getting into the 4WD modified race with a xx-4 next year after several recommendations from some of the guys here. Do you like the standard xx-4 chassis (closed on the bottom?) or the WE that appears to have openings for the battery and motor? Also, what brushless motors are most guys using? Thanks again.

I believe most were running sensored 10.5 turn motors. Take your pick, you could probably populate a smaller list of the ones to stay away from. I like Novak, LRP, and Tekin ESC's. LRP, Trinity, Tekin, Novak, and Reedy are among a few that make good motors. There are a bunch of guys using Hobbywing ESC's and motors and seem happy with them. They are cheap.

Mark, for some reason that setup sheet is showing up blank?

fixed, converted it to jpeg.

Either chassis is fine really, just try to find the best condition one you can. Cars that ran the Trinity aluminum front bulkhead tend to break the front mounting screw holes which made the chassis useless. The rear hinge pin brace smacking the ground liked to break off the rear bumper. Most importantly though is the condition of all the screw holes - if they are stripped out, that's bad.

Mark Westerfield wrote:Either chassis is fine really, just try to find the best condition one you can. Cars that ran the Trinity aluminum front bulkhead tend to break the front mounting screw holes which made the chassis useless. The rear hinge pin brace smacking the ground liked to break off the rear bumper. Most importantly though is the condition of all the screw holes - if they are stripped out, that's bad.

OK, will do. Thanks. Was the trinity front bulkhead an aftermarket part or will all xx-4s have them? I assume the rear hinge pin brace issue isn't something I can avoid, correct?

Trinity aluminum front bulkhead was aftermarket.

I used Team Associated chassis protector on the bottom of my car and let some of that cover the brace to minimize the chance of the bumper getting broken off.

Mark Westerfield wrote:Trinity aluminum front bulkhead was aftermarket.

I used Team Associated chassis protector on the bottom of my car and let some of that cover the brace to minimize the chance of the bumper getting broken off.

OK, thanks. Along those lines, do you think the WE's open chassis exposes the motor and battery to damage during the rigors of racing and, if so, should I go with the standard XX-4 or just use a chassis protector underneath the whole thing?

if you do get a trinity front bulkhead be careful. some people mark it as a xx4/sw the street weapon one had like 0 degree of kickup when the xx4 one has some.

for me, i know a lot of people went with the non worlds chassis since dirt got up inside even with li-pi. but if you run a worlds or aftermarket motor mount have to trim out some for a brushless to fit.

I wouldn't use the aluminum front bulk head for a raced car, the front bulkhead is way cheaper and easier to get, and swap out than a chassis, I would rather break a front bulkhead.

I used a WE chassis with Team Associated chassis tape and it worked great.

I also used an original XX4 motor mount (a-3219), instead of the offset lowered motor mount (a-3227). The offset mount will put the motor flat with the bottom of the chassis with can allow it to scratch up the can - and even worse move your motor gear mesh setting.

First build tip:

Use a tap to cut threads in the Losi plastic and graphite parts, then use set screws in the unused holes.

I use a Dubro 4-40 tap to cut the threads instead of just forcing the screws into the parts. Forcing the screws to thread into the parts spreads the plastic and graphite parts and causes stress and failure points - especially on the front inside camber mount, and on the front lower shock mount screw. I buy 10 or 12 of each of different length 4-40 set screws from True Value hardware for about 15 - 20 cents each. I buy the various different lengths to match the thickness of the part they are going into. The set screws are used in the unused holes around ball studs and shock mounting screws. This strengthens the parts by filling the gap and preventing the adjacent ball studs and shock mounting screws from crushing into the open holes - once again, very important on the front inside camber link mount and the front lower shock mounting screws.

Don't Use vintage Team Losi ball studs on a raced car, the Losi ball studs snapped off at the head. I used current Team Associated 4-40 ball studs, once again using various lengths to match the parts they are going in. The exception being the front inside camber ball stud. I cut a longer ball stud to allow me to use a Team Associated small flat plain nut on the back side to help spread the load and prevent the camber link mount from breaking off. The ball stud needs to be cut flush with the plain nut, otherwise it will interfere with the steering rack. Remove the ball stud when you cut off the extra threads. Heating up the ball stud during cutting will soften and melt the surrounding plastic.

Mark Westerfield wrote:First build tip:

Use a tap to cut threads in the Losi plastic and graphite parts, then use set screws in the unused holes.

I use a Dubro 4-40 tap to cut the threads instead of just forcing the screws into the parts. Forcing the screws to thread into the parts spreads the plastic and graphite parts and causes stress and failure points - especially on the front inside camber mount, and on the front lower shock mount screw. I buy 10 or 12 of each of different length 4-40 set screws from True Value hardware for about 15 - 20 cents each. I buy the various different lengths to match the thickness of the part they are going into. The set screws are used in the unused holes around ball studs and shock mounting screws. This strengthens the parts by filling the gap and preventing the adjacent ball studs and shock mounting screws from crushing into the open holes - once again, very important on the front inside camber link mount and the front lower shock mounting screws.

Don't Use vintage Team Losi ball studs on a raced car, the Losi ball studs snapped off at the head. I used current Team Associated 4-40 ball studs, once again using various lengths to match the parts they are going in. The exception being the front inside camber ball stud. I cut a longer ball stud to allow me to use a Team Associated small flat plain nut on the back side to help spread the load and prevent the camber link mount from breaking off. The ball stud needs to be cut flush with the plain nut, otherwise it will interfere with the steering rack. Remove the ball stud when you cut off the extra threads. Heating up the ball stud during cutting will soften and melt the surrounding plastic.

Great stuff, thanks. I'm looking forward to building mine up.

I raced a WE chassis with the lowered mount at the VONATS and my car was fine. I didn't notice any extra dust/dirt inside the car. If you were going to run outside on a blown out track, then I would suggest the chassis protector to seal it off.

I also used a 4-40 tap on my car. I never thought to use the set screw trick though. I may have to implement this trick.

Mark, I see you are using the middle camber hole on the front tower. I used the inside hole. Any reason you went with a shorter link?

At the race, I did use the longer inside link.