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In the process of going to Ultimate hobbies and getting yokomo parts on clearance for members. Since the owner and managers remember me from when i worked there 13 years ago. The owner offered me this. Price i will not tell you. But since 870c parts and wheels are harder to come by. Talking with aip47-2008, stickboy decision is to go with 91 arms which came with it, and get everything to that point. so i can run easier to find yz wheels over 870. yes this will be run a few times. but no serious bashing. all indoor track. with undertray. Shocks well since the yok ones always leaked and everyone has told me first thing they did was swap to associated thats what im doing. and well since not all perfect. going for a set of re re worlds shocks since same size as offered for 91. Then li-po trays from rccars4sal member. and a tbg body. maybe a 10.5 at most for power.

Nice find...

Yes, nice find indeed.
If You´re going run it, I´d suggest a topdeck and m3 drive train, Your´s seems to be m2?
A 10 turn BL would be too agressive without a slipper IMO - unless You can adjust the ESC.

Dennis even with the stock lower chassis backbone installed.

What is the m3 hardware. The arms in the rear, and unistalled in front from the pic is the 91 model. so wider and i will be using the yz axles, not the 870c. and Thats what i was wondering on the brushelss. NOt going to race it (unless i can find the overly expensive slipper unit). Just a few times around the track, pack here and there just for fun. DOubt i will make it to a vintage NAts.

Thanks.,

If You´re not going to run it hard, then You can run it as it sits (including the lower backbone)

By drive train, I mean belts, diff "gears" and pulleys. M2 belts have smaller and more "teeth" than M3

Look at old those NOS goodies! Be sure to post pix once you have it completed. If running on an indoor track with undertray it should stay in good shape. Just keep off the track when the SC guys show up.

Try to find some M3 diffs and pulleys if you can. M2 is more efficient, but the tension adjustability window is smaller and so you'd be more likely to strip the belts, especially with brushless power. The rear belt in particular tends to skip more than the front (especially on the 870 chassis, which does not have slotted mounting holes for the motor mount and rear bulkhead), so at least make sure the rear is M3 if you can. Otherwise, just go light on the power

I learned the hard way that rear belts and rear diffs will suffer from brushless and lipo.

WELL Looks liek this 870c will become a shelfer after all. Since rumaging int he yokomo clearance, found some 93 works parts. and well think ill build that as a runner. Need a few thigs for this 870, shocks, 1 set of universals. and a body kit, wing and wing mounts. and ill leave it alone.

Shocks:

The original Yokomo shocks for the 870c are grey/silver in color. The easiest way to source them is to try and find another roller on eBay as a parts car. Finding them NIP is very difficult, and the ones that I have found for chassis that I have restored and sold were never in like-new good condition, but still functional. So if you're going for authenticity on the shocks, this will not be easy. Maybe Aaron or somebody else on here has a set in good condition?

Most 870c owners would swap out those shocks for AE shocks anyway, since the AE shocks performed much better. That would be your easiest option.

Universals:

The original universals for the 870 are the same part front and rear if you keep the stock arms. I think we discussed yesterday on the phone that there was a long front arm conversion, for which there were long front universals that were made. I have a set of original front/rear universals that are in good condition if you want them and/or cannot find a NIP set from the discount treasure pile at Ultimate Hobbies. Let me know.

The alternative is to do a hex wheel conversion, which is actually pretty easy. If you keep the stock arms (same universals front/rear), you can use Lazer ZX5 68mm universals, which are a direct fit. Throw some hex wheel hubs on there and bam, you're done. The only issue here is that modern hex rims do not have the same offset as the original 870c rims.

i was thinking gold associated shock, even though they are re re.goldones wereout at the time. and canbe bought, probably a .71 fronts and 1.32 rear. with the white parts. I think there was one pack of 421 universals in the pile. see what i have since going back for more 93 parts to add ot that build.

Associated shock would work since i have associated shock towers, and aaron and i thinking that the chassis is maybe an associated one.