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So far built on an 870c chassis. All the flat parts will be "home made". the rest of the bits should be mostly accurate for a 91 yz10,, cant seem to find my alloy bulk heads though.... Top deck is a prototype for fitting the 91 style but using the 870c 2mm mounting holes. I just dont like drilling holes in the plastic bulk head caps. This should eventually allow 91 restorers using new caps to keep them clean and still have the 91 style. Yeah, stock version will be made as well,, but I think my personal car will use the long version,,, we will see.








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That looks really good.. I'll be in for a set when you get them up and running.. I have almost enough parts to build another yoke.. I'll just print up the remaining parts..

Shawn

No kidding! bulkhead caps and battery posts!

rccars4sal wrote: I just dont like drilling holes in the plastic bulk head caps. This should eventually allow 91 restorers using new caps to keep them clean and still have the 91 style. Yeah, stock version will be made as well,, but I think my personal car will use the long version,,, we will see.

"If", and when you can find them...............................Period correct bulkhead caps already have the holes

Shhhhh.. I already have the battery posts on shapeways and a couple little bits... caps just need to be scanned and test fit.. have one prototyping project to finish first for some one the board..

oh you might have this.. I'm looking for the measurements of the yokomo wing buttons.. have one to measure for me? Just need the height and circumference of the top portion.. pm me if you do..

Shawn

wing buttons should be the same ones being used for the NIX91 project.

saw the battery posts a week or so ago Honda, figured it was you since same name. lol just type in yokomo on shapeways.

Yup that's me.. I had to fix the antenna hole.. Got that sorted out.. Going to check the wing buttons from NIX.. Want a set for my display 870C.. Thanks!

Shawn

*edit* Just checked his store and they aren't on there.. Oh well.. I'm still on the look out if anyone has any.. S

hondaman wrote:Yup that's me.. I had to fix the antenna hole.. Got that sorted out.. Going to check the wing buttons from NIX.. Want a set for my display 870C.. Thanks!

Shawn

*edit* Just checked his store and they aren't on there.. Oh well.. I'm still on the look out if anyone has any.. S

I've got the teardrop ones on mine I can measure those up if you want.

Peakey wrote:

hondaman wrote:Yup that's me.. I had to fix the antenna hole.. Got that sorted out.. Going to check the wing buttons from NIX.. Want a set for my display 870C.. Thanks!

Shawn

*edit* Just checked his store and they aren't on there.. Oh well.. I'm still on the look out if anyone has any.. S

I've got the teardrop ones on mine I can measure those up if you want.

Thanks but I got measurements from alien3t.. I'm going to be modelling these in a day or so and print a pair up..

Shawn

I'll be intreated in a pair of those

Wing buttons are one thing I have none of. Not even any broken ones. I checked out the shapeways sight. very neat. Has anybody used their repro pars? Is 3d printed any good for runners?

rccars4sal wrote:Wing buttons are one thing I have none of. Not even any broken ones. I checked out the shapeways sight. very neat. Has anybody used their repro pars? Is 3d printed any good for runners?

That really depends on the "ink" being used and how it is annealed. An original plastic part is a single molded piece where polymer crosslinking takes place throughout the entire plastic. In a 3D printed piece, there are grain boundaries dividing up the structure, defined by the resolution of the printer. If the grain interface energy is high, then it is a structural weak spot and more susceptible to shifting (breaking) under stress. That, in addition to the difference in polymer chain length between the original plastic and the ink "plastic" will determine the structural integrity.

I had read somewhere the "ABS" plastic spools have a consistency like lego plastic. That would be fine for a lot of parts seems like.

That might be okay for the bulkhead caps and motor mount cap, but that's about it. ABS plastic is what Tamiya used to use. The TA02 was all ABS plastic, for example. It's utter sh*t, but if it's not stressed, then it'll be fine.

Yeah structural parts might need to be made more solid.