RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi Guys
This is my first post here and was hoping some of you could help me out with a couple of questions.

I picked up an Ayk Boxer off ebay and have spent a while cleaning her up which was great. The Boxer came with a Magnum 600s motor, which I can’t find any info on; I would love to know more! Also there was no body and I really want too run the Boxer, but not sure what other bodies would fit. Has anyone tried using another body?

Anyhow I have included some pics, I think she cleaned up nicely.

Cheers
Neil

well done, just give the tires an extra scrub

If the numbering follows the same pricnciple as the kyosho Lemans series, than 600 stand for the the number of seconds drivingtime with a 1200mA pack. Standard moter, yet being from thAYK still collectible and fitting for your buggy.

For the body, Maybe a traxxas bandit or the rc10 goldpan bodies that became available again?

You need something pretty wide in the nose. Parma's beetle is allways a good choice for shorter wheelbase cars too.

Thanks for the info Mr. Ed, your right about the tires, they look pretty bad in the pics There's a residue around the spikes which is difficult to budge using a brush and water, I'm worried about using anything stronger for fear of damaging the old rubber.

Hey welcome to the board and merry Christmas

This is a great buggy, I will follow your thread as I would also like to find a body for these buggies. I have a few of them but I don't dare painting the only body I have.

There must be a compatible Tamiya body as well.

Hey Mr.Ed, do you have any idea how to mount modern wheels and tires on these bauties? The rear wheels are just pressed and don't use a cross pin. I think some of the Kyosho cars used the same system a while back.

Good job kencocat

Another thin g I'd like to do eventually... Change the chocks for better ones. The AYK looks good but they don't perform that well. Associated don't really work as AYK is metric.

I don't know which ones to use though....

Hey there, first thing, welcome aboard mate! That's a nice introducing post, I restored a Boxer some weeks ago and it came out really nice, here's the thread: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3049&start=0

I really think you could get yours shinier than it is right now and I also think a Protech I body should fit pretty good, I'll try to fit one on mine later on and take a picture if you want... If you plan to run it, I would replace the bushings with bearings and use a very gentle motor as the diff. (by the way do you have a ball diff. in there?, mine has gears...) would not bear hot motors. Keep us posted!

Thanks for the welcome guys, on the body issue I really like the Kyosho Tomahawk, the wheelbase appears to be the same, the overall length of the buggy is very similar to the Boxer and a repro is available. Asso_man the Protech I body also sounds interesting, a picture would be great! Oh and your restoration thread puts my attempt to shame!!

Unfortunalty the diff is the gear type and it's not smooth. I have rebuilt the diff assembly a number of times but it's still very notcy and I’ve noticed a hairline crack on one of the outdrives which I’m sure will worsen when I run the car.

AYKBOBCAT wrote: Hey Mr.Ed, do you have any idea how to mount modern wheels and tires on these bauties? The rear wheels are just pressed and don't use a cross pin. I think some of the Kyosho cars used the same system a while back.

I had to check Asso-mans build pictures cause I don't have one of these.

It looks like the mount system on a Tomahawk or scorpion indeed.
On the timetunnel site you can find a mod they used. as I remember it goes more or less like this:
1. drill a small hole into the flat face of the alu cilinder.
2. Put the alu cilinder on the wheel you want to use: modern kyosho or tamiya wheel with 12mm hex and mark the mall hole on the wheel.
3. drill a slightly larger hole inthe wheel
4. press fit a crosspin (the sprinsteel hollow tube type) into the hole of the alu cilinder
the rest you can guess

I would just replace the axle at the wheel side with a modern axle with crossppin and 12mm hex, or even put universal. Just make sure the dogbone end fits the cup and the dogbone crosspin fits the slot of the cup. (Look out for Tamiya F201 wide axles and hexes: they 'll help putting the wheels wider, which with the small ofset of modern wheels is surely wellcome)
The benefit of the universal is that you're no so likely to loose the bone (typical pain for trailing arms). The down part is you either have to find the exact length or modify the mount of the arms to adapt for a different length. Or you can make them to length with copper tube and brazing...
get creative

Ok thanks for the info I appreciate it...

Where do you get the Tomahawk repros by the way?

The Tomahawk repro bodies can be found in kamtec models Ebay shop, I can't find them on there web site though

AYKBOBCAT wrote: I think some of the Kyosho cars used the same system a while back.

Here you can see some pics of the tomahawk set-up: http://www.gassaninedesigns.com/id79.htm
Take your time to browse the guys website: lots of nice pics of all circuit 1000 variations.

Kencocat, any news from your side?