RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey all, what are the options vintage or new for upgraded bellcranks for the 10T? I have read somewhere people using the gt or ds steering rack? Do you use the front holes in the nose plate? Can you use a buggy setup in the front holes in nose plate? Vintage? Wasn't there an rpm bellcrank? Thanks all

Yes use regular buggy style bellcranks in the forward holes. The re-re worlds bellcranks are an excellent cheap option.

The GT cranks work great, i just put some on my buddies truck. I think they actually work better than the original cranks.

www.vintageteamaandl.com

You can get the excellent bellcrank set there for the 10T

I put a GT bell crank set on my gold pan 10 years ago.. way better than the stock setup..

If you can find a set, A&L, Composite Craft and MIP all made them for the 10T.

What do you do about using the 8-32 screws in the front holes on the truck nose plate? I know the a+l set uses 4-40 screws for the 10T which you have to counter sink to ensure they centre due to the hole being a 8-32 hole but if you use a buggy steering with 8-32 screws e.g. worlds setup do you use button head 8-32 or countersink a standard AE 8-32 screw? If the latter how does it hold with only one chassis thickness instead of two and after you countersink it you wouldn't have hardly any threads left to hold the screw secure in the nose plate? Similar problems when you use the GT /DS bellcrank,if you use the standard truck nose plate screws that are 8-32 at the very bottom and 4-40 from then up through the steering bellcrank you have to countersink again through only the nose plate or you can use 4-40 and countersink to centre screw in larger hole. Not quite as simple as it sounds and the mip/composite craft setup would be the easiest ideal fit with bearings and no servo saver but still long bellcranks which some have pointed out that it is not ideal to use the long bellcrank.. What are the ways you folks have fitted these shorter bellcranks? Thanks all.

If I remember correctly when I did the GT bellcrank years ago I drilled the bellcrank out to fit 8-32 all the way through and used a long screw.

I can check exactly what I did later tonight.

Either use the countersunk screws as is, or use button heads.

I just threaded the front holes and ran the gt screws directly in without countersinking anything. That does leave the edge of the screw exposed, but they are still more or less flush with the bottom of the chassis, and they're in the little "valley" between the main chassis and front of the nose plate, so I felt that was good enough.

Thanks all, yeah there was an mip set on ebay recently but they wanted 30 usd to post to Australia and the cost of the part was 30 usd so that was a bit out of my league...