RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Got a mid-late 80's full ball bearing gold pan. Converted to brushkess with a stock 3300kv Reedy that was a takeoff from a new kit that went straight to a hotrod motor.

I think I want to try to jump into the fray of twice a month racing at the local dirt track and am looking for a basic spring and shock and shock oil setup for good handling for a novice. I ASSume the threaded rod lengths in the manual will provide best alignment for ordinary non-Kinwalds.

Springs and shock oil: My shocks are the ordinary gold ones running stock springs with a total guess as to a forgiving ride height. Shock oil is whatever was stock when I bought and built this thing 30 years ago... And I don't think it leaked out.

Pinion: I got a stealth tranny for it that has a whole different tooth pitch to the big gear than the ball diff in there now has. Where should I get and how many tooth pinion should I get for this stock Reedy 3300kv brushless I'm running. I'm trying to take it easy but I don't know how much the stock 30yo ball diff can take before I have to swap in the stealth.

Tires: groomed dirt track. I got the 2.2" wheels recommended from the bloke in great Britain so modern tire sizes are open to me. No idea which tires to pick though.

-peter

Hi,

Here is a link from Team Associated, there is some good reading, all the manuals are

downloadable, I would suggest you start to set your car up like the 94 Worlds manual.

Can you post a pic of your buggy with the body off?

There are a few different front shock lengths.

Some good reading here,

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/shared/RC_HandbookV2.pdf

Cheers, Dave.

thanks mate. i'll get to looking at that '94 worlds manual.

in the mean time, i swear i've seen some shock oil listed as 30wt. does that mean i can use 30wt motor oil as shock oil in the old gold shocks?

in the mean time, here are some snaps i just took. with some 20 year old bolink foamies for pavement bashing. you can also see the three wires from the brushless reedy stock AE motor. please excuse the filth. i can't remember ever cleaning it since i bought it new spring of 1986 as a starving first-year college student who worked two jobs over Christmas break to pay for it.







-peter

Motor oil and shock oil is totally different.

EDIT: nevermind. i found the '94 world's under the plain old RC10 manual link on the team associated site.

[quote="DaveM"I would suggest you start to set your car up like the 94 Worlds manual.
Cheers, Dave. [/quote]

i'm on the team associated web site for manuals for discontinued models. there are a LOT of choices. can you point me to the one that is the '94 world's model?

http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/discontinued/

-peter

Hi Peter,

RC10,

I have previously used the CE Championship Edition Manual.

The one at the very bottom is the Worlds.

http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10/

Cheers, Dave.

Peter, which track?

also, since you have a short arm car...start here for reading

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=35257

when finding out what tires to use. just go down to the track and ask around.

JK Racing wrote:Peter, which track?

Joey, my local track:
http://elingsraceway.blogspot.com/?m=1

Santa Barbara scene is pretty small compared with greater LA. There is only racing every other Saturday, and four classes: 1/10 truck, 1/10 buggy, 1/8 electric, 1/8 nitro. That's it. No vintage class.

As being narrow arm front, I will be converting it to wide, and I think I have all the parts to do it, as well as a B-stamp pan to fit the stealth. I am assuming that the wide front will help at least a little in keeping up with the newer stuff. What I don't have is a pinion gear to fit the tooth size of the stealth, or a recommendation for a middle of the road tooth count.

-Peter

Based on the pictures, I would take a standard ribbed front, Proline M3, JConcepts Green, AKA soft type compounds. For rear, I would do Proline Holeshots or if fluffy Blockade, JConcepts DoubleDees or if fluffy Goosebumps, AKA impacts...something of those types, same compounds as mentioned the first time.

If your moving to the CE style suspension, read up here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=27135

Motor gearing...I would start (for stealth trans) around 26/78 and check temps after every 2 minutes of run time (stop if it gets 140 ish). If the heat goes up to there before 6 minutes, drop 2 teeth and after it is cooled, try again. The gears are 48 pitch. If your not heating up quick, how does the car feel? Slow compared to others, then go up 2 teeth and start testing again. I have never used the Reedy 3300 kv motor, so gearing these isnt my forte. As a comparison (the KV is close to a 13.5t brushless sensored motor) I gear 30/81. I dropped a few teeth for your starting point.

Three teeth on the spur is about equal to 1 on the pinion.

For the 6 gear trans, start around 21/81 to get you in the same FDR as above. Again, 48 pitch.

JK Racing wrote: Motor gearing...I would start (for stealth trans) around 26/78 and check temps after every 2 minutes of run time (stop if it gets 140 ish). If the heat goes up to there before 6 minutes, drop 2 teeth and after it is cooled, try again. The gears are 48 pitch.

Thanks, just to make sure we're on the same page, before i order up some pinion gears, this is my stealth and the spur gear that came with it (off an ebay buy). Does this look like 48 pitch?


thanks,
peter

yes, that is 48 pitch.

perfect thanks

-peter

nevermind... found it...
-peter