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Another six gear transmission related question...

Should there be play when i mount my axel drive gears to the drive gear pivot after i install the button head screws or do i need to shim them so they are tighter? (approx step 42 in the original manual)
im currently replacing my idle gears due to a loose pivot gear situation i had..

Hi,

I just grabbed my six gear out which looks new like it has had very low run time, I have rebuilt it

with new bearings.

When I grab one of the idler gears at a time I can rock the gear back and forward approximately

1 - 2 mm.

I have never thought to shim them, you would have to be careful not to make it too tight.

Dave.

I noticed the same thing with the nice six gear I received. It runs super smooth though. I was already thinking about shimming it when I start the rebuild. Like Dave said you just need to make sure you don't get it too tight. I think the old six gears can be made to run quite nicely with a little care.

I think it is a good idea to tighten your outdrive gears firmly to the pivot. The button head should compress the inner races against the shoulder on the pivot, and create a solid connection. To accomplish this I have ground the axle down until it is just a bit shorter than the two bearings stacked on it, then tighten snug and use loc tite. You can also shim the outer race in the outdrive so there is tension on the C clip when it snaps in. This will ensure your gear mesh doesn't wobble when the dog bone whacks the outdrive around, and should protect the idler bearings.

when i put the case together the play seems to be less obvious... i think my outdrives might be slightly bent or something also or my dogbones might have issues. ive been considering some cv axles but the out drives are def worn. both the rear axles have chips and are worn... i think im better off just buying a new rc10 worlds roller the way this thing is going :/ seems like it would cost less than fixing all this stuff and id get a stealth trans...

the 6 gear really benefits from having the 5/8" x 3/8" out drive bearings installed where the felt seals go. that fully supports the out drive. In some cases, you can actually do a modification to remove the outer small bearing in the out drive, and place in a dummy race or spacer to fill the gap, OR add a brass tube on the outside of the gear to line up with the 5/8" bearing to keep it lined up, so you lose a set of bearing races, leading to less alignment problems and drag. I've got them with all three bearings with no issue so it's really not a big deal either way.

yeah i was wondering why there were no bearings where the felt was, seemed like it would be better with a bearing for reasons you stated... money pit!!!
***Is there a part number for those bearings or just use any in that size ?** (thanks for the suggestion by the way!)

are the newer rc10b5's good ? ive heard complaints about declining quality of AE... as a kid it was a top contender so i just assumed it was still good when i started getting back into rc a few years ago now... i want something modern that i can use 13.5-10.5 brushless system in eventually, buggy or truggy maybe... i still have not run on a track and just missed my opportunity to run at the most local shop in my area bc they shut down until they find a new location (saw their track on VRC)! procrastination...