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The XX-CR runner:





The XX-CR Kinwald donor:



The Kinwald donor stripped down and cleaned up:



The parts haul as it currently stands:





On the way: Threaded shock bodies.

Next steps: Break down the XX-CR runner, rebuild shocks and trans and begin graphite chassis build. And keep looking for more Trinity BK parts.

Looks like you will have a nice runner. Always been my favorite Losi. I have amassed all the parts to build my XX BK CR, always seem to find something else that I need to do before I start the build. Hopefully I'll get to it soon.

The shock rebuild: Shock bodies are new, Trinity collars are used. Rear springs are from the Kinwald; front springs are the Blue Rate springs I had on the CR. Pistons, shafts, etc. are from the CR.





Next I will tackle rebuilding the diff and trans, and finish building the battery pack when I get a new soldering iron up to the task.

Making some progress...

Pretty.

very nice build youve got going on there, ive got an xxcr kinwald i restored, i stripped the blue off the alloy but its standard appart from that, not half as nice as that with all its choice extras.

That's looking all kinds of awesome.

Looking good.

So I got the Deans connectors on the ESC and the battery pack is built. I took apart the trans, rebuilt the diff and got the dual slipper installed. Putting together the rear end came with some hiccups having to do with the rear arms. Details will follow shortly along with progress photos.

Here is the trans after the rebuild. Rebuilt using LOSI 3078 Diff Hardware Set, LOSI 6951 Carbide Diff Balls and LOSI Diff Grease. I went with a LOSI 88T 48P Kevlar Spur dual slipper gear, but I may have to swap in the stock BK 84T if the 88T rubs on the RPM gear cover after final fitting:


Here is the rear end before dropping in the trans and motor plate:


In this picture you will see that I had to move the rear hub carriers in "one hole" on the rear arms. For some reason, the graphite rear arms (same part # as stock) have one extra set of holes to the outside as compared to the stock BK arms. Leaving the hub carrier in the "outside holes" ended up with the rear axles / dogbones being too short to reach the outdrive cups of the diff.

And now that the hub carriers were moved in one hole, the part of the rear arms that extend past the hub carrier hit the inside of the rear wheels. Other than cutting off the extra set of holes on the rear arms, any suggestions to work around this issue? I would rather not take apart the rear to install the stock KW arms that are all scuffed up from use. I have to take a look at the recent thread detailing another member's BK CR build to see what those rear arms look like.



Front end:


And with the electronics installed:


Next steps: Resolve rear arm issue, get the D5 motor installed, cycle the Sanyo 3300 pack a few times to hopefully get consistent charges to the pack, adjust diff, slipper and rod ends.

Very nice!!!!

Thanks.

I realized this morning that I will have to trim the XX-CR body to fit the BK front shock tower. I am not in love with the paint scheme, but I do not hate it either; the colors are a bit too dark. But it looks pretty good for having been painted well over 15 years ago.

I also realized how rough the blue motor plate looks compared to the rest of the car...since this will be a runner at least I will have no guilt if I mess it up more than it already is.

I also picked up this Trinity Battery Strap from good old Sabulatech:

Before the test run:

Hi, nice build.

On the rear arms, looks like you have the XXX VLA rear arms there, which gives the two options for length. Just file down the extra hole on the end and you will be good to go, or just use original XX rear arms.

Many thanks.

Rather than swap in the stock rear arms, I used the Dremel to cut and file down the extra set of holes on the xx/xxx arms.

The test run went well. ESC ran cool with the 88t spur and 19t pinion. Needs to be faster so I will play with the gearing a bit.

I got the Sanyo 3300 pack to take a charge of 3000mah after the last cycle so looking okay on that front too; I will see what happens after a few more cycles and switching up the charge settings some more. 3 amps in and 20m.amps neg delta peak gets the most charge in and keeps pack temp down.