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I'm just waiting on some parts to arrive to finish this one but it will be a runner for sure. It's made up of many left over parts and will have a vintage look. It will be powered by a crazy .12 that is overkill, but should sound like an angry raccoon.

I can't wait to run it.

Any Pics?

Cheers, Dave.

Well, nothing worth posting yet.

This truck is really being built because of the engine, which has some pretty impressive numbers which will be disclosed later for the tech heads

The mail man was nice enough to bring me some stuff today, at least enough to get a good start. It all started with an engine, a spare chassis, and enough parts to built 50% of a truck.

Here's a mock up, most parts are ordered with the only thing I still need is shocks. The tank is badly yellowed from years of running O'donnell fuel, I've got a much nicer tank but not sure if I want to use it. I've also got a new black lid tank (another thing not updated from Tower) but they scream RTR to me, so I don't know what to do.

The black lid tank doesn't look too bad in the black tub chassis, so we'll go with that. It's also reverse fill which is better.

This is kind of a cool video from a non RC guy, makes me want to do a box art paint scheme.

[youtube]rh69DTz3K8o[/youtube]

We're slowly getting there, still waiting on a bunch of parts but all four corners are firmly attached. Hopefully the mail man brings me some stuff tomorrow.

Tomorrow I will go buy a throttle servo which is the same as steering, .09sec and 111.1oz.in. It should be snappy and probably undrivable.

The pipe is throwing me for a loop as I'd like to use the GT pipe which is a single chamber while onroad pipes are dual chamber. I don't want to lose that "sound". Those that have heard it know what I'm talking about.

Nice!

Thanks,

The mail man didn't bring me any goodies today so all I was able to do was mount the throttle servo and set up the radio.

Call me crazy but this is the radio I'm using Probably not the smartest thing to use but I'd like to keep it somewhat authentic

And here are the power figures from the .12 engine. Pretty staggering considering the OS .12 CV-R puts out 1hp and revs to 36,000 RPM. This thing has nearly 3/4 more.

Enough parts came in the mail to nearly finish the truck, just waiting on a couple more to roll in.

Now it has a new diff, new CVD's, rear exhaust header and pipe, throttle/brake linkage is hooked up, new bearings. I also ordered an all new GT2 clutch set up minus the bell due to the SG crank. I don't know how I'll get the clutch bell to work and line up as it's iffy.

The stock clutch bell is too small, I tried a (god forbid) traxxas clutch bell as it's slightly bigger, but the diameter is still too small. Finding a 32p bell is proving hard. The GT2 clutch bells start at 19t which is way too big. My next course of action is to try a MGT clutch bell although I cant figure out what pitch it is, some say 32p or .8 but others say mod 1.

Anyone use an SG crank in a standard GT with a normal 15 - 16t bell?

If there was a pilot nut to suit an SG crank and a 3/16 bearing I'd cut the crank (although I rather not). Then I can use the standard set up. The other option I see is to run a Traxxas flywheel and bell, who makes a nice aftermarket flywheel (MIP?)

Hi RJ,

Any updated pics?

Cheers, Dave.

I'll post up some pictures later although it doesn't look much different.

The more I look at the clutch I think the Traxxas option is the best. I found a 16T non Traxxas looking bell and will order a MIP 4-n-1 clutch. I just need to find a nice aftermarket flywheel now.

I bought a cheap and nasty standard Traxxas flywheel to try before buying an RRP vented unit, anyways, it turns out the diameter is too big. It hangs out the bottom of the truck with non pull mounts. It might be ok with pullstart mounts though.

Next to try is the Jato flywheel which is lightened/vented and 30mm. The Associated GT and GT2 flywheels are about 30mm so I've got my fingers crossed it will work this time. I'm also not sure what the difference is between the MIP rustler clutch and the MIP jato clutch, they have different part numbers.

I don't think my vintage receiver can cope with the high power digital servos. They work great for a minute then go haywire I know it will be much better with a modern 2.4 radio but I was looking forward to using the old radio.

I don't really see why the receiver would be affected as it's getting direct battery voltage, unless it has an overload or something to do with the pulse signals causing it to shut down.

I'll have to test it again ....