RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I find it hard to believe sometimes that Nikko made such a competition buggy way back in th late 80's. I found mine by chance and absolutely love it.Obviously 4WD the car is driven by a fine pitched belt and has 3 diffs. Ive opted for some sweet looking Tamiya dampers over the gold alloy stock units and run the Thunder Tiger/Lazer type wheels with alloy hex hubs. The car comes fully ball raced but the very rare gold uni's are Nikko 'UP WORKS' parts. I hope you like it.

Sweet. Nikko were such a strange company, either top notch race cars or department store rubbish.

Dr. Robotnik wrote:Sweet. Nikko were such a strange company, either top notch race cars or department store rubbish.

You said it.

That is a good looking car.

Track-side pics and all. You must have been aiming to baffle us.
Well congrats, you did.

Thanks for these unique pics.

.....and here are some of the very few pics I've found over the net in the past 12 months or so of other peoples Brats.I think the car looks stunning with its sleak yet agressive lines.I was very suprised how well the car drives,I found it very neutral around a few of the tracks Ive driven on.I have a good friend here in Australia who repro's this body and has also made a couple of molded undertrays aswell.These cars are super rare.

I've got two boxed dandy dash versions and one Super Sprint, all of which could have the Brat works pack fitted it came in two parts as well, never found the upgrades yet, but even stock, my shelfer handles as well as my Tamiyas and will give them a good run for their money

Hi Bormac,
Can you elaborate the use of Kyosho hex hubs with the rims? The Gold Unis have a diameter of 5mm while most hex hubs are having the standard 4.5mm. Did you drill the centre hole abit? Also, the front wheels need hex hub with 3-4mm thickness while the rear needs 8-9mm thick hex hubs to have the correct offset. Can you please advise me on this prospects? If possible, can you please advise me with your parts number? Thanks.

Brat wrote:Hi Bormac,
Can you elaborate the use of Kyosho hex hubs with the rims? The Gold Unis have a diameter of 5mm while most hex hubs are having the standard 4.5mm. Did you drill the centre hole abit? Also, the front wheels need hex hub with 3-4mm thickness while the rear needs 8-9mm thick hex hubs to have the correct offset. Can you please advise me on this prospects? If possible, can you please advise me with your parts number? Thanks.

If you use the ZX5 wheels you'll find the front wheels have less offset than the rear ones, So you can use the same thickness hex all around with those

edit: not as pronounced a difference in offset as the yokomo wheels on the one with that falcon body though

Hi Mr.Ed, I understand that but the screw threads on the front will not be long enough while the rear screw thread will be too long for the locknuts if standard 6mm hex hubs are used.

Mr. ED wrote:

Brat wrote:Hi Bormac,
Can you elaborate the use of Kyosho hex hubs with the rims? The Gold Unis have a diameter of 5mm while most hex hubs are having the standard 4.5mm. Did you drill the centre hole abit? Also, the front wheels need hex hub with 3-4mm thickness while the rear needs 8-9mm thick hex hubs to have the correct offset. Can you please advise me on this prospects? If possible, can you please advise me with your parts number? Thanks.

If you use the ZX5 wheels you'll find the front wheels have less offset than the rear ones, So you can use the same thickness hex all around with those

edit: not as pronounced a difference in offset as the yokomo wheels on the one with that falcon body though

oh 6mm is standard?

Front: you can use the RB5 front hexes or hotbodies front hexes(not the optional losi-sized ones).
Or you can use the hotbodies front wheels which sit inward.
(see the pic here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3705&p=35407#p35407)

Rear: you could use Tamiya F201 hexes which are 10mm thick. They are plastic and can be trimmed to the desired thickness.

Since the axles are 5mm you could also replace the axles by CVD's for the ZX5 or RB5 (if the ball-end and pin fit the cups of the diff-outdrives. You can find 3 different lengths of CVD's just with these 2 cars. The length in the manual refers to the distance from the center of the ball-pin to the center of the crosspin in the cvd part.

( I've been looking into this a lot lately: to get hexes on a YZ-10)

Yes, standard alloy hexs will be 6mm thick and 12mm in length...

I've modified the Tamiya hexs (6mm thick) to 10mm for the rear and sanded down the standard hex to 4mm thick for the fronts to adapt the Tamiya dish wheels. I've also drilled the center holes to 5mm wide as Tamiya hexes are 4.5mm.

But Bormac had mentioned that he is using the alloy hexes for the wheels. I'm very interested in this wheel setup and hope to know how he does it.

By the way, any idea about Kyosho hexes measurements? For example the thickness and center holes for the ZX5 and RB5?

Also, what's the offset for ZX5 rear wheel or are they the same offset with standard Tamiya wheels?

Thanks.

David

PS: Mr Ed where can I get the 10mm hexes? Is it common?

Mr. ED wrote:oh 6mm is standard?

Front: you can use the RB5 front hexes or hotbodies front hexes(not the optional losi-sized ones).
Or you can use the hotbodies front wheels which sit inward.
(see the pic here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3705&p=35407#p35407)

Rear: you could use Tamiya F201 hexes which are 10mm thick. They are plastic and can be trimmed to the desired thickness.

Since the axles are 5mm you could also replace the axles by CVD's for the ZX5 or RB5 (if the ball-end and pin fit the cups of the diff-outdrives. You can find 3 different lengths of CVD's just with these 2 cars. The length in the manual refers to the distance from the center of the ball-pin to the center of the crosspin in the cvd part.

( I've been looking into this a lot lately: to get hexes on a YZ-10)

I modified some cheap alloy hexes I got off ebay.Yes I drilled them out to 5mm and Im also using the same drive shafts all round.Its only the stub which is the shorter of the 2 different lengths.I also machined the alloy hex down to make it narrower.I did all this the night before a race meeting a while back so you'll have to excuse my lack of specifics.

very cool car, it doesn't look at all like what they put out now. The new ones look like junk.
question though, in one of the pictures I saw a buggy that is a kyosho, white body and the battery slides through the chasis. What is it? I had one back in 1990 that my boyfriend at the time loaned to me to get started in rc's. I loved that thing but it broke and the hobby shops didn't have parts, so I bought a frog for my very first purchase into the addicting hobby.

Ha Ha Rc Chick- Im always amazed at how little people know of these cars.They were very popular and still are.The car you drove and are asking about is the Kyosho Ultima. Here's one I have just finished....Ive opted to run the battery length ways inside the chassis like some of the Japanese guys do. I love the look of these cars.

I like that one too! Ok well now that I know for sure what it was I guess I have to find me one. Bet they are a pretty penny, hard to come by, and hard to find parts for.