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Hello,

Just bought my first kit (RC10B5) and I would like to paint it all fluorescent yellow.

I have bought a can of Tamiya PS 27 (florescent yellow) and a can of Tamiya PS 1 (white).

Never having painted a body before I would appreciate if anyone could give me some pointers.

What I know so far is:

Wash with warm water and dish liquid and dry thoroughly
Scuff inside with scotch brite pad (is more or less better?) avoiding windows
Multiple light coats of first colour (yellow)
Multiple light coats of backing colour (white)

As the yellow is semi transparent I'm not sure how many coats to do, I read painting RC bodies with fluorescent colours takes a bit of practice.

I'll be following up after painting as well to show how it turns out.

Any and all advice appreciated, thanks in advance.

Everything you listed sounds about right. What I do after each coat dries is hold the body up towards a light and see which areas look lighter so I know where I need to put more paint.

ezarc wrote: Wash with warm water and dish liquid and dry thoroughly
Scuff inside with scotch brite pad (is more or less better?) avoiding windows <---- Masking
Multiple light coats of first colour (yellow)
Multiple light coats of backing colour (white)

First coat onto raw lexan, make it a real light mist that you can barely see... let it dry & key in, seal up masked edges.

Every other coat don't have to be that light, long as you're not so heavy handed it starts drippy runs.

White backing can go on thick, once if not twice.

Your procedure sounds right. I have a hair drier handy for drying between coats, it's a lot faster than "spray and wait", and helps you get through multiple thin coats quickly. As soon as you spray a thin coat, blow it dry with the hair drier, then repeat. The warm air also may help the paint to cure better.

I find if you have to use hairdryer to help paint faster, it's better to warmup the body before painting. After each coat warm the lexan again... the paint just needs time to gas off & etch in.

tamiya wrote:I find if you have to use hairdryer to help paint faster, it's better to warmup the body before painting.

I do that too...forgot to mention it.

Canook must be too freezing most months of the year for paint last time I had to squirt a rushjob at night on balcony when it's under 10deg (C!!!) I had a big long extension cord with the blowdryer on its end.

Got weird looks from neighbours peeking out their windows, but hey.

tamiya wrote:Canook must be too freezing most months of the year for paint last time I had to squirt a rushjob at night on balcony when it's under 10deg (C!!!) I had a big long extension cord with the blowdryer on its end.

Got weird looks from neighbours peeking out their windows, but hey.

I have done that as well, outside and it is at 0C, no silly neighbors looking at me though.

Get the hair dryer out and set the paint.

tamiya wrote:Canook must be too freezing most months of the year for paint last time I had to squirt a rushjob at night on balcony when it's under 10deg (C!!!) I had a big long extension cord with the blowdryer on its end.

Yep...if you want to do any painting during the winter months, at least in Alberta, it's not easy!

That's why I built this: