RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I know there was a thread somewhere about this but I can not find it. Iam a veteran of racing,20+ years and I still race. I have a dislike for modern buggies and their tight chassis lay outs. I was thinking of grabbing a re release RC10 worlds car and having a go at it. I know the b5m battery cradle fits. Is there anything else needed? I also heard of the re release gear box not being machined correctly?? Anyone else racing these?

I still race my RC10, classic re-re and a B stamp (and RC10T b stamp). Funny, I still havent had a worlds car after all these years, LOL.

Clean up the trans, get modern rubber and electronics in it. Get a feel for your set up and race it. They dont give up much to modern cars. I dont think there are any 'needed' changes to the kit. Titanium, bearings in the steering are good updates. There are alternate shock towers to allow you to use B4 or B5m wing mounts and the longer modern front shocks if wanted. Those are 'nice to have' things, makes wing mounting convenient. I personally run modern shocks (big bore), because I could.

i was thinking the race roller worlds car as a start, a b5m battery cradle,big bore shocks and maybe one of those rear towers you were talking about. also one of the jconcepts bodies.

You will need both front & rear towers if you want big bores. The big bores are .89 sized, the kit are .71 sized. Not sure what the B5M cradle buys you (it is cool), unless you plan on modifying the steering so the servo sits sideways.

another thing i was thing of ,is this going to be feasible in the long run with parts availability?

I was racing my RC10 before any of the re-re parts, so if there is a will, there is a way. Biggest issue I had was getting wheels for 2.2 tires - but now that is solved.

ok now im thinking worlds car with nx parts. i think thats his name.

I think the rear mount hurts the RC10 vs the modern cars. A couple of pro drivers have said with todays springs and tires there is no reason to run a rear mount car, ever.

If you were running a stock class you may get away with it, but you wouldn't with mod. Also if the track is high bite a mid mount car would be better balanced.

There are options to keep RC10's competative against modern cars thanks to the many wonderful folks of this forum.

I have a Schumacher kf, a "real" mid motor car. the motor is actually in the middle of the chassis. As far as rear motor cars not being as competitive as a mid motor I think it heavily depends on the surface of the track.

Surface and layout...I've seen layouts where MM cars were all getting crushed by RM. And, I have seen the opposite as well.

Surface makes a big difference, if dirt or clay youll possibly find it better but on high grip yes will be slower, however saying that ive done reasonbly well with a B2 making the top 40 in a big competition out of 80 racers and was fun. If the cars fun to drive who cares where you come.

Could be setup, and rear end weight bias, but I find my RC10 doesn't corner as well as the new cars. Speed is not an issue, as it will sometimes pull wheelies like the new cars. I have a shorty pack, placed on the front-back centerline, and set towards the front, with foam on the back 1/3. So the battery weight distribution is forward.

For my driving style, I have noticed that shorter turnbuckles all around (1 in from longest settings front and rear), wake the car up and it has all the steering and corner speed I want.

Keep in mind Twisted, the more you swap this part for that and change the stock geometery away from the original design, the more experimentation you need at the track to get the set up you like. You may make changes that you just cant 'tune' out. I personally went all in on the modern wheels, ended up going back to stock suspension/wheels all around and found the car much more enjoyable to drive.