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Guys, Ive got a good condition RC10 B2 that I would like to convert to 4wd, now this is where Im no longer in the know so need advice on where to get these items from to start the build and of course advice would be muchly appreciated

Belt
Rear Gearbox layshaft and pulley
Tensioner
Front gearbox and inerds, diff if possible
Castor block
Ujs

Now the chassis im tempted to do both standard chassis and from CF with a top deck like the worlds 91 proto so not hard to do so would then make my life a bit easier. Its going to be a runner.

Rear gearbox uses a idler with bearings in it. The earlier stealth uses a live shaft with bearings in the case. If you can make the bearings fit in the case you could use the Robinson racing pieces for the ten4. Tooth count is the same. Belts we use are 6mm wide making them easy to source on amazon.com very cheap

this is all you need to know right here in a neat thread:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=8224&hilit=4wd+rc10b3

Holy crap, how am I just seeing this?! Very cool!

jwscab wrote:this is all you need to know right here in a neat thread:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=8224&hilit=4wd+rc10b3

jwscab wrote:this is all you need to know right here in a neat thread:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=8224&hilit=4wd+rc10b3

I was trying to copy/paste that thread while I was eating lunch but my POS phone wouldn't cooperate.

Ok so going to buy some layshafts and pulleys, start on the rear and go from there. After seeing a couple of done designs Id like to try to keep to the original design as much as possible so may see if i can get a 3d printed front gearbox bssed on the front centre bulk head. Also buying a B44 front castor blocks and knuckles and see where i go. Pictures to follow.

Dont forget to drop the kickup to 10 degrees or so

You could avoid dealing with the B2 idler by running the pulley off the top shaft behind the slipper. Similar to Georg Kotzinger's converted B4.

jwscab wrote:Dont forget to drop the kickup to 10 degrees or so

Is this due to it putting the geatbox to high, as if not then may keep it as it is.

Phin wrote:You could avoid dealing with the B2 idler by running the pulley off the top shaft behind the slipper. Similar to Georg Kotzinger's converted B4.

Oh cool! I did this too, Jake made me a custom slipper with pulley built in. I didn't like the three gear front trans but I suppose it could be straight to a pulley if the ratio could be made right

GoMachV wrote:...
Oh cool! I did this too, Jake made me a custom slipper with pulley built in. I didn't like the three gear front trans but I suppose it could be straight to a pulley if the ratio could be made right

I totally forgot about your other 4wd conversion.

it's gotta be either 3 gears or direct drive off the top shaft(or 5?) to get the drive the right direction. with a a non centered belt that kind of kills the direct drive idea unless you make the front a spool.

the kickup angle on 4wd cars is much less than 2wd, I suppose this is due to the driven front wheels needed less 'give' on entry to a bump. If you match a B44 kickup like Bugle did, you can use B44 front end parts.

Much of the reason for the custom front end parts on the Ten4 is because of the rc10 30 degree kickup.

Or, like MIP: with the pulley on the idler before the diff; then you only need a 2 gear front.
Or a mid motered 4 gear in the back; with pulley on the topshaft and again a 2 gear in the front.

jwscab wrote:it's gotta be either 3 gears or direct drive off the top shaft(or 5?) to get the drive the right direction. with a a non centered belt that kind of kills the direct drive idea unless you make the front a spool.

....

Front spool or a oneway.

You can also do a two-belt setup to center the front diff. Belt off the trans topshaft to a pulley on a layshaft somewhere inside the car...then a second pulley on that layshaft with a second belt to the front diff.

Then again many touring car front diffs are offset to one side.

layshaft could work with centered direct drive front diff. would be really beneficial to adjust ratios too. shorty pack would be best bet.

b2/b3 are super narrow up front,an offset diff would pose issues, standard rc10 has bad enough clearance.

Hmm....losi xx4 parts might be really useful here. I wanna say they are really similar up front.